TL-1 wiring diagram PDF question

[pablopepper]

Yes, no issue there.

[wokkaboy]

Hi Peter, there are no stupid questions, only the ones you don't ask !

Yes sure I usually solder the capacitor in place then cut off any excess.
The legs are long as some circuits you can run the capacitor legs to join between the volume and tone pots and save using a wire.

[peterh]

Thanks Pablo/Wokka!
Well, since there are no dumb questions..... here's one more.
I bought a bunch of braided shielded wire with my kits to upgrade them, as I heard the braided/shielded was better. But with the braid exposed on the outside, rather than as a wire inside the coated wire (explaining poorly, I know), is there any issue with things contacting that shielding ? When I'm running a ground wire between things, can I just get rid of that shielding since I only need the one ground wire, or what else do I do with it. Maybe I should have just bought regular wire or just reuse the factory wire?

[wokkaboy]

Hi Peter, I'd still copper shield the cavities, you can still use the braided shielded wire but cloth wire or the regular wire should be fine as the wire run lengths are short as the switch is adjacent the volume and tone knobs

[peterh]

I've shielded all the cavities (what a bugger trying to get the copper tape in place without it sticking to everything) so hopefully that will reduce hum.
If I use the shielded wire though, do I just leave the shield on but not soldered to anything and just use the inner wire?

[wokkaboy]

Hi Peter, if you have shielded the cavities it may be safer to use the standard wire unless you use heatshrink on connections to avoid contact with nearby wires or shielding. The shield can be used as an earth wire and if it makes contact with the copper shielding it may earth the circuit and cut the output.

[WeirdBits]

Ideally, with shielded cable, you want the inner core to carry your 'hot' signal and the shield/braid to carry the ground. For example, when connecting your volume to the output jack a single shielded wire will carry both the hot (inner core) and ground (shield/braid) and help to shield from noise. And, just like your cavity shielding needs to be connected to the ground at some point, so does the shield/braid on a shielded wire to do its job effectively. Heat shrink tubing can help to minimise the chance of shorts in places where you have the 'hot' exposed, and don't want to risk the shield/braid touching it. If it is a short connection, say between two adjacent pots, then noise is less of an issue so standard wire will be fine and easier to work with.

If you're just running a ground link, like the ground connection to the bridge/tailpiece or linking the ground between the backs of pots etc, then standard wire, coated or bare, is all you need. Some use bare braid or heavy gauge wire for ground links, whatever works for you. Other things can also act as ground links, like the control plate on a Tele which, if it's conductive, already links the pot casings and switch, so you only need a ground connection on one of them.

[peterh]

So, I'm still not clear on this..... for my TL-1 I've shielded all cavities including the control cavity. From what Wokka said, it sounds like I need to make sure that my ground wires don't touch the shielding or it may ground the circuit and cut the output, but WeirdBits mentions that the cavity shielding needs to be connected to ground at some point. Are they not all grounding to the same thing? Do I need to run a ground wire from the shielding on each of the cavities to ..... somewhere? Also, do I need to run a ground wire from the bridge (soldered to it, or just touching it when bridge screwed down) over to the back of one of the pots or could I just solder it to the ground wire on the bridge pup?
So many questions, so little understanding

[Gavin1393]

Weirdy is correct. Follow what he has said.
As long as the bridge is touching the earth/ground wire solidly then you should not have a problem.

[Andy40]

One last stupid question for tonight. The legs on the orange drop cap are really long - 4cm each - can i just trim them down to a more manageable length?

Yep Peter, you'll need to trim them after measuring.

Edit: Seems I answered an old question, I missed the second page. It was early in the morning.