First Timer Build TLA-1R

[Andy40]

I think I will get a wilkinson bridge and make it a string through. Thinking about the tone rider vintage pickups too, anyone tried these?

I am going to replace the nut with bone too.

I put tonerider vintage pups in my ST-1 with a bone nut, they sound excellent.

[Bungee]

I put tonerider vintage pups in my ST-1 with a bone nut, they sound excellent.

Awesome. The toneriders have good reviews. For the price they see like a great choice

[DrNomis_44]

One way to fill the holes that are off is to use some thin doweling that's about the same diameter as the hole, cut the dowel material a bit longer than the scratchplate screws and sharpen one end of the piece of doweling to a point, then put a little bit of PVA wood glue on it, then gently hammer it into the hole, then use a sharp stanley knife blade to trim it off flush with the body of the guitar, hope that helps.

[Bungee]

Thanks Dr. I will see what I can find.


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[wokkaboy]

Hi Ben, the tuners don't look too bad, call it 2.1mm out with the measurements you took between holes. The main thing for me is that they are aligned is more obvious to the eye than distance between tuners. So are the pickguard holes pre-drilled and some don't align ? If this is the case drill new holes and the pre-drilled holes will be covered by the pickguard (hopefully !). Otherwise wood glue and sawdust of a similar colour or glue toothpicks or thin dowel in the holes as Doc explained.
The gap between pickguard and overhanging fingerboard is normal.
Check the distance nut to 12th fret and 12th fret to bridge saddles, they should be roughly the same (12th fret to low E saddle about 3mm more). Most tele kits I've built the bridge pup cavity is a bit far too south and I've had to route the neck side of the cavity by about 5mm and this will close up the gap between the bridge plate and pickguard. If you order from Realtone today by express post they should arrive xmas eve Thursday.
Upgrades sound great, so I'd order your Wilkinson bridge as soon as you can so you can check intonation and make sure bridge pup sits in the cavity nicely.
The Tonerider pups are great value for money I recommend them.
I thought the TL-1AR was alder body but it's ash, so think the model is TLA-1 with rosewood fingerboard. Some nice looking grain

[Bungee]

Cool, thanks for the response. I will leave the machine head holes, but the pick guard holes I will need to fill. Toothpicks/Skewers is a good idea, mainly the issue is the holes are close, but far enough off that the screws would be at an angle.
Looking at pics of Tele's, the pick gaurd always seems to be away from the neck. I placed a real parts order with express so hopefully I will have delivery before xmas.
cheers
Ben

[Bungee]

I thought the TL-1AR was alder body but it's ash, so think the model is TLA-1 with rosewood fingerboard. Some nice looking grain

Whoops, I fixed that up in the heading, you're right, this is the TLA-1R.

[wokkaboy]

no worries Ben, postage to Sydney you may be in luck getting the order before xmas.
Most tele's wouldn't have the fingerboard overhanging the neck heel so maybe that is why your kit looks different.
If it bothers you, you could cut it off pretty close to flush with the neck heel, but be careful to leave enough meat on the fingerboard for the 22nd fret.
Some tele kits only have 21 frets so you got a bonus fret

[Bungee]

Plugging up the holes that need re-drilling for the scratch guard.



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[wokkaboy]

nice one Ben are they bamboo kebab skewers ?