Willem's Epi '84 Explorer EXA-1

[Scott J.]

Hi Will, ... what Brendan said ("don't touch the fretboard!") couldn't be more spot on ... even though it might seem like something is amiss with the measurements the overwhelming chance is that they're actually all fine (these kits are pretty damn accurate)

One thing to be aware of is that the tune-o-matic bridge isn't meant to sit square to "string-line"/neck - they're actually at a slight angle (very roughly about 3 degrees out of square) ... so you should have a slightly longer measurement from nut-to-bridge on the low-E (bass) side than on the high-E (treble) side ... so you're measurements are sounding pretty much like they ought to.

... and great choice on model (I love a nice EX - its some serious rock-n-roll stylin' ) and you're plans for it sound like you'll certainly be doing it justice! Really lookin' forward to seeing this baby come together!

[Willem]

measured it all and took some photos if i remove the pickup you can see the heel of the neck is sitting just out from the back of the neck pocket



My plan to remedy this was to file some wood of the point where my finger is so the neck heel can meet the body and the distance from nut to 12th would become fairly equal to the distance from 12th to bridge

but if there is a better way please tell me

[wokkaboy]

Will what is the distance of the heel to the back of the neck cavity when the neck pup is removed? I just measured mine. Nut to 12th fret 313mm. 12th fret to heavy E string saddle is 313 to 319mm. If this distance is over 318mm to saddle wound forward a notch will needed to be chopped out of the neck. I've had to do it too mine

[wokkaboy]

Jay, thats the thing, Will won't be able to push the neck back as the pickup is preventing it. It all depends where the bridge holes have been drilled so wait till Will confirms the 12th fret to bridge dimension. From memory mine was over 320mm thats why there was no other way to get the 12th fret closer to the bridge than chopping the neck, the only other way was to plug and re-drill the bridge holes. My build the bridge holes have been drilled too far south.

[Willem]

okay i measured inside of the nut(body side) to 12th fret is 310 mm and 12th fret to the low E saddle when it is on it closest setting(shortest distance) is 319-320 mm also if i remove the neck pup keeping the neck in the same position the gap between the heel and the back of the neck pocket it about 1-1.5 mm

[wokkaboy]

Hey Willem, you need to measure to about the centre of the 12th fret, so I measured nut to 12th fret about 312/313mm. Glue will fill a gap of 1-1.5mm at the heel end of the neck.
Can you please double check if that 319-320mm distance is from the centre of the 12th fret ? If you measured from the closest edge of the 12th fret then this distance will increase slightly to the centre of the 12th fret.
Do you have a 500 or 600mm steel ruler ? generally they are more accurate than a tape measure and as Brendan pointed out if using a tape measure I'd start at say 100mm as the tip can move or give inaccurate readings

[Willem]

I'm going to go to the big green shed to pickup some timbermate and maybe sandpaper and paint so ill pick up a 600mm steel rule while I'm at it, on paints though any in particular you would recommend

[WeirdBits]

A 1000mm steel rule is great to have as well, as then you can measure half and full scale in one go without adding any re-positioning errors. A 600mm is more useful overall and the one I usually reach for, but if you plan on several builds and can afford it then a 1K is handy to have.

[wokkaboy]

Hey Will, I've had some success with White Knight spray paints but I'd probably go to a good auto shop and get some auto spray paint is probably a better quality.
As Weirdy said a 1000mm ruler is handy for overall scale

[Willem]

righto I'll definitely get the 600mm and I'll see about the 1000 I don't have an airbrush or any of that do they sell that auto paint in rattle cans? also will a 250g tub of timbermate be enough?