The YB4 Build

[ozzbike]

Two questions guys if you please:-

1. This body does not have any pre-drilled holes to mount the bridge. I assume I will have to measure to find where I should drill the pilot holes. Does anybody have any template or measurements I can use? Thank You.

2. This body has a hole drilled and a recess gouged into the neck pocket. I assume that this is to enable a ground or earthing wire to run through the body. I have never seen this before....newbie....but all of the other seven guitars I have at home don't have this.

Do I have to line the neck pocket with copper tape and attach a ground wire to the tape....because I cannot see anything else it would go to....no like the metal bridge wire????

[pablopepper]

1. The saddles of your bridge need to end up the same distance from the twelfth fret as the distance from the nut to the twelfth. Roughly centre the saddles on their adjustment screws before you do this to assure you have room to move both ways.

2. The hole in the neck pocket is simply the easiest way to drill a hole between the pickup cavities. Its superfluous. Don't copper your neck pocket, it should be a wood to wood contact, no grounding needed.

[pablopepper]

If you haven't already, you should read through this thread.
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/commun...iewtopic&t=302
All the general information you should need.

[ozzbike]

Pablo thanks for tha response.

I have had a look through that thread before.

The kit is a YB4 which has 24 frets.....so the distance from 12 to 24 will need to be the same as 24 to the bridge? Think that is the answer.

Thanks.

Greg

[wokkaboy]

Greg, measure the distance from nut to 12th fret, and bridge will be same distance from 12th fret plus about 3-4mm compensation. So example if nut to 12th fret is 380mm then E string saddle should be about 383mm from 12th fret. Wind the saddles in about the middle position so you have room to move forward or rearward

[Brendan]

Greg - DB has done a tute on how to set a bridge on a PB (principle would be the same for a YB) in this build thread here (http://www.pitbullguitars.com/commun...wtopic&t=280.1) - makes the whole bridge placement thing nice and easy when you don't have any pre-drilled holes for placement. In doing it though, it was a lot easier with the right number of the right clamps - DB used 2 quickgrip type clamps - one for the neck and one for the bridge and 2 scissor style clamps for the E and G string. You could mickey mouse around them, but I think it'd be a whole lot easier to botch the whole process. Both types of clamps are readily available from your local hardware store and come in handy for heaps of other uses if you don't already have them.

[ozzbike]

I thought about doing something a little different. So I looked around the net and found heaps of photos with sprayed finishes and designs....not a lot of hand rubbed stains and dyes with anything other than single flat colours or a burst effect. So I thought about doing an angular....as in across the guitar...burst.

I don't have anything in purple....so purple and black it is. Read somewhere that Red and Blue make purple....found some ratios on the net....really dark nearly maroon colour.

I have sanded through to 240 with a sanding sealer and pore fill completed. One coat of the purple and a light black....need to gauge the darkness and mix before I get too carried away. (Photos taken whilst still drying.)

It will be interesting to see how this dries....sand to 320 then colour again. That will have to wait until Monday....love shift work.






P.S. For a wood that not many people seem to like....Basswood has some nice grain. I am liking the translucent effect.....may have to consider options before I darken anything further in the next coats.

[ponch]

Dude that's pretty cool! I really like the gradient effect.

[AJ]

nice way to do this, will look a treat when the shiny top coats are done

[pablopepper]

Definitely different. I like.