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Thread: Lawrys JM-1 : The Matriarch

  1. #11
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    Wow. Advice, warnings and humour coming in left right and centre. I love it. Can't believe how much assistance is freely given in these forums (or is it fora?).
    The hole is quite small and on the back so won't be blatantly obvious to anyone except me. Consequently I think I may just fill and sand unless DB pops up and admonishes me. As for The B store, is there a problem with going there? Unless I am mistaken, they originated in WA, so the sandgropers should be encouraging people to go there to increase their shareholder dividends ;-). Thanks to all for the responses.

  2. #12
    Overlord of Music gavinturner's Avatar
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    Hi Lawry.

    Great kit! Have loved this one from afar myself for quite some time. Your colour choice is perfect!

    On the tear out, for my 2 cents, I would definitely go with Timbermate, fill, sand, stain, forget. If you pick a neutral colour eg. Maple or lighter, you will hardly see it under the colour. It's a great product and so easy to work with. Even if the fill is slightly detectable due to different takeup of the dye, it's one of those issues that will ultimately bring you and the guitar closer together (awww shucks).

    cheers,
    Gavin.
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  3. #13
    Moderator Brendan's Avatar
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    Little tearout like that should barely be noticable once you stain if it's filled with a light Timbermate. DB has recommended sanding the body a bit to build up some sandings, then mixing that in with the Timbermate as you're applying to make the colour blend as accurate as possible.

    At the risk of spending some time in the naughty corner (I'm due a round there soon anyway ) there's nothing wrong with the B store, but there is with some of their products. Generally their stuff is for home handyman (and woman) type activities. I guess here we're talking something like detailed woodworking in terms of aiming for accuracy and quality in output. Therefore many will recommend other sources for things like glue, sandpaper and the like. You'll also get better understanding and service from a woodworking store - nothing like the blank look you get from someone from Bunnings when you bring in an obscure tool and then help them to find it in their own store. Not having a go at those that work at Bunnings, but it's like the difference between a good, classically trained butcher and a shelf stacker in the supermarket - a butcher will tell you what the cut is, how to cook it and how to get the best out of the cut of meat - the shelf stacker will tell you what aisle it's on.

    That said - timbermate is timbermate. Bunnings sell it just the same as Carbatec / proper woodworking stores. What they don't sell is Titebond (glue that's stronger than timber as opposed to Aquadhere, which someone on the forum has used and their neck started to part ways with the body). Woodworking stores sell better sandpaper, etc, etc, etc, but you also pay a premium for it. Guess it comes down to what you're willing to trade off ($ vs quality), how far you're willing to go and how far it is to a decent woodworking store...

  4. #14
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    OK. I can see where you are all pointing me and that is cool. I'll get some timbermate from the B store but will be wary of other products without expert advice. I can live with that. In fact, I am more than happy to take this type of advice because my expertise is in electronics, not wood. So once again, thanks to all.

    There is one other thing, if I get sent to the naughty corner with everyone else who thinks they are due, I should learn heaps!

  5. #15
    Moderator Gavin1393's Avatar
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    I'd agree with Scott

    Best way to fix this is to get out some Sandpaper and sand some particles from the body and then mix these particles with some wood glue, preferably, Titebond.
    Steaming ONLY works with dents and dings.....simply because the wood is compressed at the time and needs to be released through steaming to 'pop' back into its original position.
    Make sure there are enough shavings/particles to fill the gouge completely.
    http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au/forum/image.php?type=sigpic&userid=1258&dateline=1443806  448Gavmeister

  6. #16
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    Thanks for jumping into this thread Gavin. I'm not sure where I might get some Titebond but I have some left over PB neck glue from my previous build. Would that be ok?

  7. #17
    Moderator Gavin1393's Avatar
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    Masters and Carbatec sell it ....Carbatec sell online too!
    http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au/forum/image.php?type=sigpic&userid=1258&dateline=1443806  448Gavmeister

  8. #18
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    Excellent. We have just had a Masters open in our city about 4 weeks ago. I have looked at their online catalogue and there are four types of Titebond; Original, Original ultimate, Type II Premium and type III Ultimate. Which is the one you recommend? I'm so confused, maybe I should just make some glue up from flour and water. It always worked at school.

  9. #19
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    Haven't been out to buy Titebond or Timbermate yet but have shaped the headstock. The template for the two smaller arcs is from a shot glass and the larger arc's template is from a microwave plate cover. Needs must!


  10. #20
    Misuse of a shot glass could be grounds for a trip to the naughty corner... but does this qualify as misuse, abuse or good use?

    Scott.

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