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Thread: LP-1SS "Blacktop" tribute

  1. #141
    Banned bargeloobs's Avatar
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    I only ever had zebras in my head when planning this build, most of the blacktops you see have either p-90's or chrome humbuckers, but yeah, couldn't agree more Lawry

  2. #142
    GAStronomist stan's Avatar
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    The zebras look awesome.
    Convention is the adjustable poles face the outside like this:





    However I have also read it doesnt make much difference, but they look good.

    I have the same SD combo going into my LP! All black for me though

  3. #143
    Banned bargeloobs's Avatar
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    [quote]/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/Quote from stan on May 20, 2014, 06:38
    The zebras look awesome.
    Convention is the adjustable poles face the outside like this:

    Haha, good spottin Stan! Yeah I'd inadvertently dropped it in round the wrong way for the mock-up pics, if you look closely you'll see the pup ring is sloping the wrong way.
    Anyway I screwed on some hardware this morning and everything went pretty cool. I ended up with a slight gap between the neck and the pup ring due to the fact the Gibson pup rings are a couple of mm narrower all the way round than the rings that come with the PBG kits but I can live with that.
    Another little job that I've known about since day 1 that needs doing is the Nashville bridge I've got needs boring out to 6.5 mm to accommodate the studs that come with the PBG kit, will get it on the drill press today, should be fairly straight forward.
    If there's one thing I've learnt through doing this build trying to incorporate USA parts is you can pretty much guarantee nothing is going to fit. Hey I guess it's all part of the fun!




  4. #144
    Banned bargeloobs's Avatar
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    Hey guys, just a quick question to anyone out there regarding wiring. I got everything wired in today and realized I should have run the earth from the saddle that runs into the cavity before I banged the plug home. The small hole designed for the earth to be fed through is on such an angle that when I banged the plug home for the saddle I've covered it up. I know I could probably try and drill a new hole but firstly I haven't got a long enough drillbit and secondly I'm not even sure if I could hit the "butter zone" between the bottom of the hole and the bottom of the plug. Is there a work around for this?
    Cheers.

  5. #145
    Overlord of Music gavinturner's Avatar
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    Hey Barge, If I was you I would gently lever the post back out and then add the ground wire. I typically use a claw hammer resting on a square of wood which is itself resting on some soft cloth to protect the finish.

    I have forgotten this wire a couple of times myself in my haste to assemble. Should be no sweat to get the post back out. unscrew the post adjustment a little to give the claw something to grab on to. Maybe the luthiers in the forum (Gav? DB?) may have a better suggestion, but this works for me.

    Remember when you put the ground wire in to just expose the bare wire and turn it over and down into the post hole so that it contacts the post as it gets pushed back in.

    cheers,
    Gav.
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  6. #146
    GAStronomist wokkaboy's Avatar
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    Hey Barge, bummer mate, think the only solution is to remove the tailpiece post. This is a very risky procedure as you may slip and ruin the finish of the top. You may also damage the Big screw top that fits into the post, so you may need to replace that. All I can suggest is getting some adjustable clamping pliers and slowly pull out vertically the post by gripping onto the big screw head. The only way to drill a hole from post holes to the control cavity is from above and I see you have your treble bridge post banged in. I'd remove the easiest one. You may have to drill a new hole to the control cavity so you will probably need a longer drill bit.
    DB may have a better solution how to remove the post bush.
    If you don't have a spare top screw fitting try wrapping it in cloth and you may be lucky and not damage it when pulling the bush out
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  7. #147
    Barge if you take out the adjusting bolt and source a longer bolt of the same thread you can easily wind out the stud with no damage at all. Just keep winding until the longer bolt hits the timbre inside the hole it'll tighten up then it should push right out.

  8. #148
    Banned bargeloobs's Avatar
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    Oh yes, I like that idea the best so far. Where on Earth would you even go to find that type of thread Hillsy.
    @Gav,Wokks cheers guys for the suggestions, the thought of going anywhere near that paint job literally made me shudder.
    So there's absolutely no way of going through with a new hole from the cavity side you reckon?

  9. #149
    Banned bargeloobs's Avatar
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    I just elaborated on your suggestion Hillsy, chopped 9mm off the bottom of an old drill bit, dropped it in the hole, chucked the screw back in and started winding. Came out like a fricken charm.
    Cheers bro, you're a legend!!!!!!!


  10. #150
    Nice work man!

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