NON-PBG - LP Build Diary for DIY Guitars GLP-40BBK

[Alkay]

Hahaha yeah I know. I'll pick three of my favourites and decide on which...it's a bit hard to put it all back together if I'm not happy with it haha.

I think I'll sand the sides top and front of the headstock with 320 or 400 grit because they need work. The rest of the neck I'm really happy with.

Or maybe wet and dry with 1200 so there is less damage? I know what cedar colour ratio I used so I should be able to match it once I am through the TO and back to bare wood.
What do you think?

[wokkaboy]

Hey Alkay sounds like a plan, I'd do that sand back the whole headstock to the neck volute you will get a more even colour rather than patching up bits here and there

[Alkay]

Hey Alkay sounds like a plan, I'd do that sand back the whole headstock to the neck volute you will get a more even colour rather than patching up bits here and there

yeah I think so it makes sense.

Cheers for your help.

Alkay.

[wazkelly]

Hi Guys, been busy with work lately and just had a quick read of some of the dramas you have had.....bummer.

As TO coats are very thin not much effort can strip lots off. Never heard about soaking the paper for any period of time as all I do is wrap a fresh piece around the dry cork block, dip it in some water to lube it up, then lightly, very lightly sand in the direction of the finish which on the top usually means with the grain but on sides is quite often across the grain. The sanding block needs to be dipped in the water fairly often mainly to free up the muck in the grit and also provided a bit of lube on the surface being sanded. Don't forget to use a damp rag to wipe the milky stuff off the surface too as you don't want to re-sand over that muck and risk damaging the finish.

Need to get 8 to 10 good coats down, cure for a week, light wet sand and if you found 1200 was too hungry move up to 1500 to taker less off as all you really want to do is add more shine and smoothness.

Time to add another 6 to 10 coats and do it all over again, as this time it should come up really glassy and appear to have a lot of depth. Add a few more extremely light coats then leave to cure for a bit longer before using 2000 and progress up through the micro mesh pads.

No precise science or method as there are too many variables and only you will know when you think there has been enough top coats done.

I am currently doing a fretless bass neck sealed with CA glue and have delicately sanded that thing many times and still manage to rip through to bare wood. Reckon I am up to about 12th or 13th layers of finish as it takes a bit more finesse to achieve an all over smooth surface. As I said, everything is slightly different and just takes a bit more patience and sometimes a bit more re-application of finish before it becomes just right.

[Alkay]

Hi Guys, been busy with work lately and just had a quick read of some of the dramas you have had.....bummer.

As TO coats are very thin not much effort can strip lots off. Never heard about soaking the paper for any period of time as all I do is wrap a fresh piece around the dry cork block, dip it in some water to lube it up, then lightly, very lightly sand in the direction of the finish which on the top usually means with the grain but on sides is quite often across the grain. The sanding block needs to be dipped in the water fairly often mainly to free up the muck in the grit and also provided a bit of lube on the surface being sanded. Don't forget to use a damp rag to wipe the milky stuff off the surface too as you don't want to re-sand over that muck and risk damaging the finish.

Need to get 8 to 10 good coats down, cure for a week, light wet sand and if you found 1200 was too hungry move up to 1500 to taker less off as all you really want to do is add more shine and smoothness.

Time to add another 6 to 10 coats and do it all over again, as this time it should come up really glassy and appear to have a lot of depth. Add a few more extremely light coats then leave to cure for a bit longer before using 2000 and progress up through the micro mesh pads.

No precise science or method as there are too many variables and only you will know when you think there has been enough top coats done.

I am currently doing a fretless bass neck sealed with CA glue and have delicately sanded that thing many times and still manage to rip through to bare wood. Reckon I am up to about 12th or 13th layers of finish as it takes a bit more finesse to achieve an all over smooth surface. As I said, everything is slightly different and just takes a bit more patience and sometimes a bit more re-application of finish before it becomes just right.

Good advice, Thanks wazkelly.

I'm currently applying a few TO coats over the mistake I made before I get to it.

I'll start soldering soon after I paint the PUP cavities with the conductive shielding paint.

It's probably a good idea to mask around the cavities on top of the body to stop any of the black paint getting on the finish?

[Alkay]

Hey Alkay sounds like a plan, I'd do that sand back the whole headstock to the neck volute you will get a more even colour rather than patching up bits here and there

Hi Wokkaboy,

Thanks for the tips. I have put on a couple of coats of TO and that mistake I made on the side of the body is already allot less noticeable. I'm going to put a couple more coats on and once I'm satisfied with that I'll do the whole body again.

Cheers,
Alkay.

[wokkaboy]

sounds good Alkay, hopefully you have learnt from your mistakes and next build won't need small fix ups !

As DB always says the finish is the most important part of the build !

Your prior question yes always mask when you think any finish may get covered in another product !

[wazkelly]

If not too late, definitely mask around PUP cavities as the Conductive Shielding Paint can make a mess of the top if not too careful.

[Alkay]

If not too late, definitely mask around PUP cavities as the Conductive Shielding Paint can make a mess of the top if not too careful.

Ok thanks wazkelly and wokkaboy,

I have started the TO on the body again. Just one coat.

Q. Apply Conductive Shielding Paint now or should I wait until the end after 8-10 coats, sand back and repeat as you said, then paint all of the cavities including PUP's, control switch and potentiometers for the LP style?

I think wait until the end but when I mask it I will strip off layers of TO when the masking tape is removed. I did work out how to make the masking tape less adhesive. Just wanted to double check before I go and do something I regret.

I read CA glue was a no no for finishing. Is it for quicker curing times?

Thanks for your help so far. I have got some nice headstock designs coming along now too.

Cheers,
Alkay.

[gavinturner]

If you are applying the conductive shielding paint wth a brush you could get away with not masking at all. Personally if you want to mask I would get some low tack painters tape. It will be very gentle on the TO. I use the light green stuff from BEAR. What were you thinking of finishing with the CA glue? It is used here on various builds all the time.

cheers,
Gav.