Toshi's first build: PBA-4

[wokkaboy]

Hey Hoby have to compare the body shapes. Might be possible to widen the pup routes and if can fit 5 tuners on a MMB-4 kit 3+2 that may work. Or are the MMB-5 a 4+1 config ? That would work. As long as a 4 string neck is wide enough for 5 strings. Might have to fit a 5 string neck to it.
Sorry Toshi about the thread jack mate !

[Hobastard]

They are 4+1. They also have some nice sculpting on the body.....

[Nekogen]

Hi Wok, yeah, if i have an enough skill, that is what i really want to do for MMB-4, 3+1 tuner config and 2xhumbuckers. surely that is way beyond my skill. I really am looking forward to seeing it! I try to find your post of IB-5 built, but couldnt. if you could share the link or photo of your IB-5, it would be very appreciated.

[wokkaboy]

Hi Toshi I found the build diary to my IB-5, I realised its not finished, I will dig up some finished pics.
It was finished 2013 so the stain is wudtone Amber, this was before Dingotone was available

http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=2059

here Toshi finished pics. I have since removed the speed bumps (frets)

[Nekogen]

Thank you for the link and photo, Wok. It is very beautiful and nice golden color, good works! Now feel i would like to try IB-5... by the way, is it your workshop? looks very nice.

[wokkaboy]

thanks Toshi, I think if you put a active pre-amp in an IB-5 it will sound great. The build diary yes that is the workshop in 2013, it has evolved since then. Its just a pine and mdf workbench I built at the back patio of my house. Was 1.8m long when first built and we outgrew that so extended it to 3m long

[Simon Barden]

If you've got scratches on your frets, then you are going to need a bit more than metal polish. Use the metal fretboard protectors and depending on how deep the scratches are and how soft the fret metal is, I'd maybe start with 320 or 400 grit paper and sand the whole fret until the scratches are gone. Then it's just working up through the grits, then moving on to Micromesh all the way up to 12000, before using the metal polish.

How much work is involved depends on the fret material. With stainless steel frets it took me around 90 minutes per fret on most frets to get them smooth after a fret levelling as stainless steel is so hard. I have just done a similar job on a Fender Telecaster and that took far less time, though still about 10 minutes per fret as the steel seemed to be harder than normal. On a PBG ES-1, I did a whole fret level, re-profile and fret polishing in about 90 minutes as the frets were comparatively soft material.

Once you've got any cross-wise scratches out of the frets (running a piece of hard thin wire across them is the best way that I've found to tell as you can feel the wire catching on the scratches rather than sliding), then it doesn't take long to go up the grits - normally just a few strokes with each one is fine.

[wazkelly]

Just did the frets on my Tele today and suggest masking up the fret board as even with those slotted metal guides/guards it is easy to mark the fret board. Also ran all the way up through the micro mesh pads to 12,000 and will hit it with some Brasso metal polish on the weekend as it does a fantastic job on sealed maple boards but could make a right proper mess on a rosewood one.

[Simon Barden]

As long as you don't absolutely soak the fretboard in the Brasso, I've found it OK on rosewood and ebony. And if there is some residue left, then lemon oil seems pretty good at removing it (though for very deep cracks in the grain, you might need a small brush to clean it out).

If you are doing a lot of work on the fretboard, then it's probably worth masking the board up. I've got wide and narrow fret protectors, but even on the wide one it is possible to leave a small mark on the board if you aren't extra careful. Good for a few frets and higher grade grits, but if starting out with low grit numbers, it's overall quicker and more protective if you mask the board with tape.

[Nekogen]

Wok, PU replacement is exactly what i was about to ask. If i go for IB-5, I was thinking to replace with passive pu from EMG or else. but agree Active should be better option. Only complication of wiring might be issue for me. been looking for suitable replacement, but so far, not sure which one can be replaceable... Just in case you have any idea of brand or model, could you advise? The 3m long workshop sounds nice&cozy. i like your tool board with device shape line. easy to put them back their place! As long as i stay in singapore, not possible to have though, once i went back to Japan, I really want to build one.


Simon, Waz, Thank you for advice on fret works. I was not aware there are many ways and techs to take care of fret. every each step of building guitar, we need lots of knowledge... the scratch is very fine, so it may be good to start from higher grids. As advised, i will use masking tape or fretboard protector. as for metal material, i felt its relatively soft when i had done with fret edge. but i will take longer time to see the fret condition carefully. About Brasso, thanks for recommendation. maybe not possible to find at local shop here, so will check something similar, once my yamaha metal polisher finished. By the way, I skipped fret leveling, since it sounds very complicated and difficult. Is it important to do?