Barnseys ES1TL

[Adam Barnes]

https://www.dropbox.com/sc/qni0kming...hqq9Wd5hvO3pga
I dony know if this will work

[Simon Barden]

Works for me!

[Adam Barnes]

Both demos where done with a loop pedal, there's 3 loops on each one using both pickups, and recorded using a tablet in front of the amp, my playings not the best first time using a loop pedal.
Thanks for the help https://www.dropbox.com/s/kpdz3e5sua...12-11.wav?dl=0

[Adam Barnes]

finally some sumlight to take a good photo

[Andy40]

Such a cool build mate. the first recording worked but not the second. I like the marshall amp too

[Adam Barnes]

Such a cool build mate. the first recording worked but not the second. I like the marshall amp too

Thanks andy
Ive had a mischief with the wireing theres some solder rolling around in the cavity and its not working so i guess its pull it all out and start again bummer

[Adam Barnes]

I do have a rattle in the bridge on the b and g strings its definitely something in the bridge loose you can really hear it when not pluged in to an amp

[Simon Barden]

The kit bridge saddles are rather loose, so need a bit of tension on them to stop them rattling. On a good quality bridge there's vary little play at all. What gauge strings are you using and what's the string break angle like on the bridge? With a stop tail you can lower it to increase the break angle, but with a floating tailpiece, there's not a lot you can do to increase the angle, though you might be able to bend the rear of the tailpiece assembly so it sits slightly flatter to the body.

You've got the saddle position adjustment screws facing backwards. Just make sure that the strings aren't touching any of the screws, or are really almost touching, as some transmitted vibrations may allow the rear part of the string to buzz against the adjustment screw (or the screw against the string). If so, turn the bridge round.

Otherwise it might be time to think about upgrading the bridge.

[stan]

even Gibson change around which ways the bridge screws face. More importantly, are the saddles oriented properly - with the flat side of the saddle facing the headstock and the bevel towards the trapeze

[Simon Barden]

even Gibson change around which ways the bridge screws face. More importantly, are the saddles oriented properly - with the flat side of the saddle facing the headstock and the bevel towards the trapeze

There is certainly no 'right' way for the bridge to sit. The ABR bridges tend to have the screws facing forwards as they often foul the strings at the rear, or stop the tail piece from being screwed down closer to the body, whilst the redesigned 'Nashville' bridge has the screws lower down and less prominent, so they often get set facing the rear.

The saddle orientation is generally a question of what's required for intonating the guitar depending on the strings you are using. Gibson send them out with the three plain string saddle slopes facing the rear and the three wound string saddle slopes facing the neck as the intonation setting generally requires the bass string saddles to be further back.

I've occasionally had to swap saddle orientation to get a string to intonate properly, but it shouldn't be necessary to turn the saddle round to stop a string buzzing. If you do there's a bigger underlying problem that needs solving. It's a lot easier to change the saddles round on an older ABR style tune-o-matic than on the Nashville type ( I'm not sure I've ever worked out how to do it on a Nashville), so they normally stay 3-forward, 3-aft on those.

You can shake a proper Gibson ABR bridge and hardly hear a thing and it looks solid. Shake a PBG kit ABR bridge and you can hear the saddles rattling and you can see them moving, both back-and-forth and side-to-side. If they (the PBG kit saddles) are held down with sufficient tension, then they work OK, but too light a downward pressure and the strings vibration can make them move.