There's a couple of posts here showing how I normally do it, using slivers of a radius block, strips of pickguard plastic etc. Work with the grain, not across it, hence the need for smaller and smaller blocks and strips.
There's a couple of posts here showing how I normally do it, using slivers of a radius block, strips of pickguard plastic etc. Work with the grain, not across it, hence the need for smaller and smaller blocks and strips.
Scott.
Is that the only way? I would've thought going across the grain initially would've knocked the high bits off with less effort?
first build PRS-1TS in progress...
http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=4937
second build PRS-1Q in progress...
http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=4956
OK, I made a mistake choosing white binding. It's really... 'stark!' I should've gone with cream.
Any suggestions on how to 'age' the binding before I apply any more finish coats?
Last edited by Muzza; 24-05-2016 at 05:58 AM.
first build PRS-1TS in progress...
http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=4937
second build PRS-1Q in progress...
http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=4956
I've put a few base coats of Blonde Shellac on my ES-3 build, and contrary to what others do [scraping it off ], I decided I liked the look of the shellac on the binding, rather than the stark white.
It gives it a aged look, without the green tinge usually associated with aged plastic.
Stew Mac give a video tutorial on how to match new with old binding using tinted shellac, basically the same thing.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=waGq9EE71UY
The beauty of using shellac is, 1] you can tint it with alcohol soluble dyes 2] it's easy to apply 3] It's also easy to remove if you find you don't like it 4] It's easy to repair if you damage it, as shellac melts into itself.
Sorry mate, I got no ideas as to how to make it go cream? Unless you put a little bit of DT stain in the finish coat and just apply a thin bit to the binding maybe?
Build #1 - ST-1 - Completed
Build #2 - LP-1SS - Completed
Build #3 - TLA-1R - Completed
Build #4 - SGD-612 - Completed
Build #5 - ES-1G - Completed
Build #6 - STA-1HT | Completed
Build #7 - ST1JR - Completed
Current Build #8 - JBA-4
Build #9 - Semi-scratch build Tele x 2 - Completed
Current Build #10 - PRS-1H
Current Build #11 - AGJR-1 - Completed
Current Build #12 - ATL-1SB
Current Build #13 - GST-1
Current Build #14 - FBM-1
Hmmm... I wonder if you can mix DT with Tru Oil?
first build PRS-1TS in progress...
http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=4937
second build PRS-1Q in progress...
http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=4956
Current:
GTH-1
Completed:
AST-1FB
First Act ME276 (resurrected curb-side find)
ES-5V
Scratchie lapsteel
Custom ST-1 12 String
JBA-4
TL-1TB
Scratch Lapsteel
Meinl DIY Cajon
Cigar Box lap steel
Wishing:
Baritone
Open D/Standard Double 6 twin neck
Alrighty then....
As the cupboard under the stairs in the naughty warehouse is at capacity, looks like our old mate Muzza is banished to the garden shed out the back. Seee ya in about ten years Muzza
As for your rough fingerboard, you can use a Stanley knife blade as a cabinet scraper. Easy to get right up to the frets.
hey DB isn't there a clapped out old small caravan out the back where Ads has been living since he introduced Tru Oil to the PBG shop ?
the Garden shed sounds like a much better option than the overcrowded cupboard under the stairs !
Current Builds and status
scratch end grain pine tele - first clear coat on !
JBA-4 - assembled - final tweaks
Telemonster double scale tele - finish tobacco burst on body and sand neck
Completed builds
scratch oak.rose gum Jazzmaster - assembled needs setup
MK-2 Mosrite - assembled - play in
Ash tele with Baritone neck - neck pup wiring tweaks and play in