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Thread: DrNomis_44's Gold Standard STA-1M Build.

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  1. #1
    GAStronomist DrNomis_44's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wazkelly View Post
    There might be other filler solutions you could use rather than sanding back and starting again. Bets to check with the paint dept at the 'shed'.

    Cheers mate will do, but I'll have to wait till next fortnight cause I'm very low on money, so I can't buy any more stuff from the big green shed till then, did you check out the pic I posted of the overhang on the 22-fret neck I'm using on the Gold Strat body?, if so, hope that clears things up, I reckon you should be able to put a 22-fret neck on your guitar with minimal issues, providing that the neck fits relatively well in the neck pocket, you should also have minimal issues with the scale length too, hope you manage to find a good 22-fret neck for your guitar at a good price mate.

  2. #2
    Overlord of Music andrewdosborne's Avatar
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    Hey Doc I happen to jam with someone on Wednesdays who uses pretty much the same rig as Hank used in the studio (Shadows). I'll take some photo's and list items used

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  3. #3
    GAStronomist DrNomis_44's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by andrewdosborne View Post
    Hey Doc I happen to jam with someone on Wednesdays who uses pretty much the same rig as Hank used in the studio (Shadows). I'll take some photo's and list items used

    Sent from my GT-I9506 using Tapatalk

    Cheers mate, would love to check out the pics after you post them, looking forward to it.

  4. #4
    GAStronomist DrNomis_44's Avatar
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    Update:


    I've just done a quick check of the Gold Strat body and the Rust-Oleum Grey Primer seems to have dried pretty hard while I left it to dry overnight yesterday, so I'm going to give the body a sanding-down a bit later on so I can smooth out the paint runs, and then I'm going to try spraying another coat of Grey Primer on the areas of the body where the grain is showing, and also areas I missed, then I'll let that dry and see how it turns out, incidentally, the Rust-Oleum Grey Primer I'm using seems to be pretty good stuff, practically no issues with paint reactions, or maybe I got lucky, I dunno, the results I'm getting are proving very encouraging so far.

  5. #5
    GAStronomist FrankenWashie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DrNomis_44 View Post
    Update:


    I've just done a quick check of the Gold Strat body and the Rust-Oleum Grey Primer seems to have dried pretty hard while I left it to dry overnight yesterday, so I'm going to give the body a sanding-down a bit later on so I can smooth out the paint runs, and then I'm going to try spraying another coat of Grey Primer on the areas of the body where the grain is showing, and also areas I missed, then I'll let that dry and see how it turns out, incidentally, the Rust-Oleum Grey Primer I'm using seems to be pretty good stuff, practically no issues with paint reactions, or maybe I got lucky, I dunno, the results I'm getting are proving very encouraging so far.
    Yeah I've found it pretty good to work with, I used the flat white version to undercoat a puppet theatre thingy I made for my better half. Great coverage even with my slipshod spraying skills. Quick drying too, unless you absolutely drench a spot of course.
    FrankenLab
    Hand crafting guitars, because Death Rays are expensive.


  6. #6
    GAStronomist DrNomis_44's Avatar
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    Update:


    And now....I'm back to Sanding-mode again to do some more Sanding, Sanding, Sanding, and...more Sanding of the Gold Strat body while the Matt Black paint I sprayed on the Custom Pedalboard is drying..

  7. #7
    GAStronomist wokkaboy's Avatar
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    Doc think you will need to try and grain fill those grain pores once it's sanded. The paint will never fill those in. Next time you spray paint try and practice your application, going left to right, right to left, then up and down, it's like mowing the lawn try and have a tiny overlap over the last row/column you painted. Move in a steady speed and hold the nozzle 90 degrees to the surface.
    With practice you will know when to stop before the paint runs.
    It may also be helpful to watch a pro painter on Youtube should give you some good tips
    Last edited by wokkaboy; 06-09-2016 at 03:20 PM.
    Current Builds and status
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  8. #8
    GAStronomist DrNomis_44's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wokkaboy View Post
    Doc think you will need to try and grain fill those grain pores once it's sanded. The paint will never fill those in. Next time you spray paint try and practice your application, going left to right, right to left, then up and down, it's like mowing the lawn try and have a tiny overlap over the last row/column you painted. Move in a steady speed and hold the nozzle 90 degrees to the surface.
    With practice you will know when to stop before the paint runs.
    It may also be helpful to watch a pro painter on Youtube should give you some good tips

    I'll have to agree with you on that mate, I think I'll just go ahead and sand it back to bare wood, then apply some Maple Timbermate to the body surface, the routes can stay the way they are cause they'll be covered-up anyway, at least I know that the Rust-Oleum Grey Primer is actually going to work with no major issues.


    I guess it serves myself right for being a little impatient, at least no major harm was done anyway.
    Last edited by DrNomis_44; 06-09-2016 at 03:27 PM.

  9. #9
    GAStronomist wokkaboy's Avatar
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    all good Doc everyone has to start somewhere. I'm sure my first paintjob probably had runs everywhere. Practice and you will improve. Think it's a good idea to sand it back and apply timbermate. You will find with painting 90% of the job is preparation. Good preparation and you may save yourself multiple coats in the future.
    Even if you get a cheap can of spray paint and practice spraying on the cardboard kit box and get used a steady motion across both directions and up/down and left/right. I usually stop spraying once I am past the object, change direction then start spraying
    Current Builds and status
    scratch end grain pine tele - first clear coat on !
    JBA-4 - assembled - final tweaks
    Telemonster double scale tele - finish tobacco burst on body and sand neck

    Completed builds
    scratch oak.rose gum Jazzmaster - assembled needs setup
    MK-2 Mosrite - assembled - play in
    Ash tele with Baritone neck - neck pup wiring tweaks and play in

  10. #10
    GAStronomist DrNomis_44's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wokkaboy View Post
    all good Doc everyone has to start somewhere. I'm sure my first paintjob probably had runs everywhere. Practice and you will improve. Think it's a good idea to sand it back and apply timbermate. You will find with painting 90% of the job is preparation. Good preparation and you may save yourself multiple coats in the future.
    Even if you get a cheap can of spray paint and practice spraying on the cardboard kit box and get used a steady motion across both directions and up/down and left/right. I usually stop spraying once I am past the object, change direction then start spraying

    I think I will seriously consider investing in an Orbital Sander this year for sure, my right arm is already getting a bit tired, but I'm not going to let that discourage me, I'm determined to see it through, cheers for the advice mate.


    And in hindsight, I really should have started out by applying the Timbermate first, rather than do what I actually did.


    Maybe a good Sanding-session will help exercise my two guns....lol.
    Last edited by DrNomis_44; 06-09-2016 at 04:12 PM.

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