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Thread: OctoberBass RCA-4 First Build

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  1. #1
    Member OctoberBassRCA-4's Avatar
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    Well, I guess my prep work from the beginning was subpar.
    Major setback. I used the recommended Mohawk Seal and Sand after sanding and staining. Apparently I didn't get enough product over the top to properly fill subsequent grain holes.
    It looked GREAT!
    The color coat went on fine, satisfied.
    The layers of lacquer from a rattle cans went on fine.
    Then, as I went along, bubbles appeared. And appeared.
    I drop filled and lacquered over and relatively corrected with good results.
    On the 3rd coat of clear lacquer, the bubbles were huge! They ate down to the grain. I realized I'd never get the open grain holes to fill.
    I watched as I dropped fill my color into the holes just bubble like Champagne.
    I got to strip the top down and start over.
    Heartbroken.

    The color changes in different light.
    I got a bit of bite when clamping in the neck, I think that can be repaired with lacquer as I go along.
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    Last edited by OctoberBassRCA-4; 21-09-2019 at 09:56 AM.

  2. #2
    GAStronomist FrankenWashie's Avatar
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    NOOO! Ah that sucks man, but such is building. You live, you mess it up. You learn.
    at least you’ll get to do more sanding! 😬😡
    FrankenLab
    Hand crafting guitars, because Death Rays are expensive.


  3. #3
    Member OctoberBassRCA-4's Avatar
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    Yes Frank, I made every mistake. But it looked good.
    Too hot outside, too much lacquer build, my impatience got the best of me.
    Now I need to know how to preserve the back and neck which look GREAT! Is taping off along the binding (my saving grace) the proper way to save what's good? Is there another mistake waiting for me, probably.

  4. #4
    Member OctoberBassRCA-4's Avatar
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    I found a good stripper. Lol! Back to my sample boards. It removed the layers really quick and easy.
    I wont go near the binding with this stuff, so I figure I'll tape off just beyond the binding and sand, Lacquer Thinner, to remove the top coats along the binding.
    Is this the proper method?
    I'll wait until I hear the best method of keeping the binding.

  5. #5
    Member OctoberBassRCA-4's Avatar
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    I found a good stripper. Lol! Back to my sample boards. It removed the layers really quick and easy.
    I wont go near the binding with this stuff, so I figure I'll tape off just beyond the binding and sand, Lacquer Thinner, to remove the top coats along the binding.
    Is this the proper method?
    I'll wait until I hear the best method of keeping the binding.

  6. #6
    Member OctoberBassRCA-4's Avatar
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    Shielding.

    Hello,
    So while waiting to clear coat, what about shielding?
    I understand I need to shield the Pit Bull Single coil neck pickup, what about the pup ring?
    What about a coil tap option on the MM Bridge pup, and the control cavity.
    The control cavity is quite large, will the normal roll of 2 inch tape cover everything need to be shielded?
    Does the whole backside of the Pickguard need to be covered?

    I included my photo of masking tape in the pickup cavities placed for painting.
    I imagine this would represent how I would shield with copper.
    The other photo is what I'm going for with pickups.

    Any help would be appreciated.
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  7. #7
    Member OctoberBassRCA-4's Avatar
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    Pickup selection and bridge

    These are what I'm going to use.
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    Last edited by OctoberBassRCA-4; 25-11-2019 at 06:40 AM.

  8. #8
    Member OctoberBassRCA-4's Avatar
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    No help with shielding? Have I upset the PBG Community? I'll figure it out I guess.

  9. #9
    Overlord of Music Sonic Mountain's Avatar
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    Heya, sorry missed that question. So what you are trying to do is create a 'Faraday Cage' around your electronics. In the best case scenario everything except the pickup poles is contained within the 'cage'. This isn't always possible, but any shielding is better than none if you are keen to eliminate excess noise and hum.

    I'm not sure what you mean by pickup ring? But you can certainly shield the inside of the pickup cavities. I did this on a mates Jazz Bass and it did improve things. You only need to put shielding on the pickguard where it will create a 'lid' for the cavities. So you want a little overlap with the tape out of the cavities so the lid has something to contact to. Also important to earth the shielding.

    I've not ordered the PBG shielding tape before so I don't know how much you get. I got a roll from Aust Luthier Supplies that had stacks on it. I've seen people on here use snail tape from the big green shed as well, it's essentially the same stuff, but narrower strips.
    Build 1 - Shoegazer MK1 JMA-1
    Build 2 - The Relliecaster TL-1
    Build 3 - The Black Cherry SG AG-1
    Build 4 - The Sonicaster TL-1ish
    Build 5 - The Steampunker Bass YB-4
    Build 6 - The Howling Gowing ST-1

    "What I lack in talent I make up for with enthusiasm"

  10. #10
    Overlord of Music Sonic Mountain's Avatar
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    Just went and looked at the pics earlier in the thread. I see the pick guard is really part of the control cavity cover, so yeah, just shield the bit that goes over the cavity. I'm not sure if doing under the pickup ring itself is necessary, you'll be able to partially shield the cavity though. That will help, but probably won't completely eliminate interference, so it'll depend on where and what kind it is (the interference)

    Bear in mind that a whole heap of commercial guitars don't bother shielding at all or only do a bit of an attempt that is in no way a complete cage.
    Build 1 - Shoegazer MK1 JMA-1
    Build 2 - The Relliecaster TL-1
    Build 3 - The Black Cherry SG AG-1
    Build 4 - The Sonicaster TL-1ish
    Build 5 - The Steampunker Bass YB-4
    Build 6 - The Howling Gowing ST-1

    "What I lack in talent I make up for with enthusiasm"

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