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Thread: Pablo's TL-1Q

  1. #91
    Overlord of Music
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    I have thought about it, and I can't justify the headache of pulling and redoing the binding. I am also going to try sanding though the veneer completely (it won't be that hard) and staining the basswood. Just need to be thorough and get ALL the glue off.
    'As long as there's, you know, sex and drugs, I can do without the rock and roll.'

  2. #92
    GAStronomist stan's Avatar
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    that sucks pabs...
    i have found, dare i say it, that if you sand the centre join more you can make it just about invisible, all kits i've had had pronounced glue in the centre join, and it's worked so far
    as for the colour, ford or holden made an awesome burnt orange metallic similar to what you have - that would look amazing, oh an keep the binding as is

  3. #93
    Overlord of Music kimball492's Avatar
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    I nearly went through mine Pabs, that's a pisser what about Inlaying a central strip of wood Pabs.
    Last edited by kimball492; 11-01-2016 at 12:38 PM.

  4. #94
    GAStronomist wokkaboy's Avatar
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    glad you didn't sand through your veneer KB !

    sounds like they are paper thin.
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  5. #95
    Overlord of Music kimball492's Avatar
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    They are Woks I guess I was lucky, but did have to move bridge position, as you can see from pic. You can probably also see in pic where the quilt sanded pretty much off in areas. I did it all by hand but still managed to do it. What about a cone shaped inlay from bridge to back of guitar to hide that area and burst the rest to hide top bit Pabs
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    Last edited by kimball492; 11-01-2016 at 12:56 PM.

  6. #96
    Quote Originally Posted by pablopepper View Post
    A black burst would have to cover most of the exposed wood. I thought about it, not worth it imho.
    How about an orange burst, as in have colour matched solid orange on the outside with a bit of the grain showing through at the center?
    No idea if it would work, just trying to think out of left field

  7. #97
    As a last throw of the dice... you could try pricking the areas with a super fine needle, just enough to pierce the glue's surface, and then do a couple of stain passes on them with a cotton tip etc. In the sand-through's the glue under the cap will be just like the centre join and repel stain. It may not work/help but there's a chance you could get enough stain to take to help the areas blend more then steel wool to even them out. If you have already resigned yourself to a solid colour it may be worth a try to save that awesome orange cap.
    Last edited by WeirdBits; 11-01-2016 at 01:05 PM.
    Scott.

  8. #98
    Overlord of Music kimball492's Avatar
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    What about using it as a feature do the edges as ripped open wood curled edges. Couldn't find pic to show guitar. Maybe use real curls of wood.
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    Last edited by kimball492; 11-01-2016 at 01:19 PM.

  9. #99
    GAStronomist wazkelly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pablopepper View Post
    I have thought about it, and I can't justify the headache of pulling and redoing the binding. I am also going to try sanding though the veneer completely (it won't be that hard) and staining the basswood. Just need to be thorough and get ALL the glue off.
    Hey Pabs, what a bummer.
    Everyone here has mentioned most options however I think yours of sanding through to the Basswood underneath might be best if you want to show off any grain at all. Stan mentioned some auto paints and the metallic Ford colour that was on XR5 Focus a few years ago looks great but was a special paint that cost a fortune, check it out at http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/i...owtopic=427187
    There was also another orange on XR6 I think they called Octane but it looked more solid than metallic.
    Good luck with trying to save it from here.

  10. #100
    GAStronomist wazkelly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kimball492 View Post
    They are Woks I guess I was lucky, but did have to move bridge position, as you can see from pic. You can probably also see in pic where the quilt sanded pretty much off in areas. I did it all by hand but still managed to do it.
    Centre join line behind the bridge seems to be an issue with this kit looking at both Pabs & Kimballs.
    Veneer with black burst edges to blend it in with the black binding may be another option but means way more work.
    From pics on website the cap looked thin. Is that what you guys thought when you first inspected the body?

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