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Thread: First Build - PSH-1 Hollowbody

  1. #91
    Overlord of Music McCreed's Avatar
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    Thanks for confirming ! Heading off on holiday for a week so it will have a good 4-5 days to cure
    Sorry, I thought you meant the decal was cloudy after having Tru Oil applied over it. It could still be a moisture issue reacting with the TO under the decal.

    TBH, I'd peel it off and start again. 4 coats of TO is bugger-all really. I would apply as many coats as it takes to start to develop a level of gloss and then re-apply the decal.
    Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...

  2. #92
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    I normally apply my decals onto a glossy surface. If you have a 2000 grit flat finish, then the sanded finish will be trapped under the decal. TruOil over the top will make the surrounding area shiny again, but light passing through the clear decal will be diffused and it won’t look the same. If you can sand it flat to 2000, then apply a 50/50 thinned with turps layer on top which should give a decent gloss coat to apply a decal on. Alternatively wait a few days and just polish the area under the decal to a shine.

    Also check that your decal printing method isn’t causing the issue. I tried converting my design from my graphics program to a pdf as it was easier to scale, but in converting, the clear area became covered in a layer of very fine dark dots, so I had to stop doing that.

    And put a couple of layers of TruOil on the decal first before applying it. Then cut around the outline of the decal as closely as possible. It makes it so much easier to put on without the decal folding or creasing.

  3. #93
    Quote Originally Posted by Simon Barden View Post
    I normally apply my decals onto a glossy surface. If you have a 2000 grit flat finish, then the sanded finish will be trapped under the decal. TruOil over the top will make the surrounding area shiny again, but light passing through the clear decal will be diffused and it won’t look the same. If you can sand it flat to 2000, then apply a 50/50 thinned with turps layer on top which should give a decent gloss coat to apply a decal on. Alternatively wait a few days and just polish the area under the decal to a shine.

    Also check that your decal printing method isn’t causing the issue. I tried converting my design from my graphics program to a pdf as it was easier to scale, but in converting, the clear area became covered in a layer of very fine dark dots, so I had to stop doing that.

    And put a couple of layers of TruOil on the decal first before applying it. Then cut around the outline of the decal as closely as possible. It makes it so much easier to put on without the decal folding or creasing.
    Thanks Simon - all makes sense. Will spend the next couple of days building up my base with a gloss coat then leave whilst going on holiday. I like the idea of coating the decal to hold its shape as experimented with cutting around the shapes and found they just folded on themselves so hope your trick works for me.

    When printing i went back and fwd with the printer as I had to supply vector / illustrator files with no background and fonts outlined etc.


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  4. #94
    Quote Originally Posted by Bakersdozen View Post
    A brand new chamois will also work. Certain make up remover pads and also coffee filters.
    Aeropress coffee filters work a treat. Super thin coats and no fibers. Thanks


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  5. Liked by: Bakersdozen

  6. #95


    My first build is certainly a learning process. Whilst sanding back try-oil blemishes I have managed to sand through both my headstock finish and body back creating a lighter spot. Luckily it is quick sand back, restrain and start tru-oil process again.

    Also discovered how thin the binding is on the horns which needed to be touched up with some satin white model enamel.

    Off on holiday for a few days which will let the tru-oil harden up nicely ready for applying decals and smoothing the body finish ready for the next 15 or so tru-oil coats. There is quite a bit of grain to file on the front where I (tried to ) remove glue marks that would appear to gave soaked through the veneer and was not removable in the end.


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  7. #96



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  8. #97
    Looking good none the less. And remember all things considered it's only going to be you who knows all the little imperfections. When someone else looks at it completed, they certainly will not be able to pick out all those little bits that have niggled you along the way.

  9. #98
    Quote Originally Posted by Bakersdozen View Post
    Looking good none the less. And remember all things considered it's only going to be you who knows all the little imperfections. When someone else looks at it completed, they certainly will not be able to pick out all those little bits that have niggled you along the way.
    Totally. [mention]Bakersdozen [/mention] question for you. When you installed your mini dpdt switch’s did you use the washers with the little tab on the body top or did you source smaller washers so only the nut shows. The locking washer with the jagged edge is supposed to go on top but looks a bit ugly. Prs themselves use smaller switches and seem to have a thin washer that is concealed behind the nut. I bought some slightly smaller ones from Bunnings and Jaycar has nothing better. Wondered what you used ?


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  10. #99
    Overlord of Music McCreed's Avatar
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    You didn't say what the blemishes were trying to fix, but if it was a small area like a bit of dust/debris or a drip/run, below is a little woodworkers trick that is great for targeting a very specific spot without sanding the entire surface.

    strip-sanding technique link

    You can cut the strip as narrow or wide as you need to accommodate the area that requires sanding. I use this technique all the time when I'm doing a finish.
    Last edited by McCreed; 27-01-2022 at 05:15 PM.
    Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...

  11. #100
    Quote Originally Posted by mrpearson View Post
    Totally. [mention]Bakersdozen [/mention] question for you. When you installed your mini dpdt switch’s did you use the washers with the little tab on the body top or did you source smaller washers so only the nut shows. The locking washer with the jagged edge is supposed to go on top but looks a bit ugly. Prs themselves use smaller switches and seem to have a thin washer that is concealed behind the nut. I bought some slightly smaller ones from Bunnings and Jaycar has nothing better. Wondered what you used ?


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    I just used the ones that came with the switches, and from memory I removed the little tabs . You'll be fine with the new smaller washers, they should work fine. I don't like the locking washers either, hardly ever use them

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