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Thread: Tutorial : Inlays and Inlay Tools

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  1. #39
    Member Tweaky's Avatar
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    Sep 2015
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    I tried your recommended starting grade sanding.
    Depending of Shell type, it worked well starting at 600-800....some still showed circler saw cuts, at 1200 grit, so I went back to a lower grit.
    I'm now thinking 220 for RED abalone is the needed base sanding grit....320 for Green lipped Abalone...at least as it is supplied buy the MOP company.

    White MOP only needs a 400 starting grit point if that,.....GOLD MOP on the other hand, because of the way it is cut, needs a Coarser starting grade [220 ], unless you get it right at the lower grits, especially with Gold MOP, it's a waste of time....as you will have portions of the shell unpolished with cavities/holes.
    From the short time I've been doing this, look at each individual shell piece under a magnifying glass, look for pits in the shell....you won't be able to level these, so consider these pieces [or portions of the shell] pretty much useless.

    I've been trying all combos, with the different shells and sanding regimes.

    A regime of 15 grades of sanding seems the give the best result.

    Only problem is my Fingers Bleeding ....possible Technique change needed
    Any tips?
    I've been using Sanding block/sanding paper ...then using finger pressure trying to sand the shell downwards against it ] I have rubbed certain points of 3 of my fingers, plus the thumb bare to point of bleeding
    Last edited by Tweaky; 13-12-2015 at 12:27 PM.

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