First time strat build

[DrNomis_44]

Sometimes the plating on the metal used to make the contacts of those output sockets, doesn't let the solder "take" or wet it properly and I've found that if you rub the surface of the solder tags of the socket with some sandpaper (say 360 or maybe 400 grit) the solder will wet it better and the solder joint is much improved.

When it comes to preparing a piece of wire for soldering to a solder tag, there are four steps that will help to improve the solder joint:

1, Cut the wire to length.

2, Strip-off the plastic insulation from the end of the wire.

3, Twist the individual strands of the wire together so that they make or form a single strand.

4, Tin the bare wire end with solder so it looks shiny.


When you solder the wire to the solder tag first make sure the joint is mechanically strong since solder is soft, secondly you need to use the tip of the soldering iron to heat the bare wire and the solder, then apply the solder to the joint while the soldering iron tip is in contact with the bare wire and solder tag, a good solder joint should only take about 4 or 5 seconds to make, also, never use the soldering iron tip to transfer the solder to the tip because the rosin-flux core in the solder will have gone up in smoke, the rosin-flux core of the solder is there to clean the oxides off the surface of the metals to be soldered so that the solder properly wets the metals.

[soundguy4033]

The trick to soldering, make sure the iron is hot enough, make sure the 2 parts to be soldered are "tinned" that is, heated and had a drop of solder applied, then, put the 2 together, heat, add a tiny dab of solder, and blow on it to cool, if the join looks like silver, all good, if its dull then you have a "dry" joint that will fail. Simply reheat and its all good.
I used to run a recording studio and have installed 3 different consoles, so all in all I have made many many MANY 1,000 solder joints, and I probably weight 8 kilos more than I should from breathing in lead fumes!

A tad bizarre to quote myself, but Im doing so to add the info I missed, "tinning" actually means adding a solder "flux" to the wire/solder combination, its a kinda glue to aid the reaction, most solder nowdays comes as a hollow tube with a core of gelatinous flux, so you solder and flux at the same time.
The most important thing to do when making a good join, heat each wire, apply the solder so it sucks itself into the stands, the place to 2 together, add heat and a tiny touch more solder, remove heat and keep the join VERY still for a moment until its cooled, do that, and you
have a join that will not fail!

[soundguy4033]

Sometimes the plating on the metal used to make the contacts of those output sockets, doesn't let the solder "take" or wet it properly and I've found that if you rub the surface of the solder tags of the solder with some sandpaper (say 360 or maybe 400 grit) the solder will wet it better and the solder joint is much improved.

When it comes to preparing a piece of wire for soldering to a solder tag, there are four steps that will help to improve the solder joint:

1, Cut the wire to length.

2, Strip-off the plastic insulation from the end of the wire.

3, Twist the individual strands of the wire together so that they make or form a single strand.

4, Tin the bare wire end with solder so it looks shiny.


When you solder the wire to the solder tag first make sure the joint is mechanically strong since solder is soft, secondly you need to use the tip of the soldering iron to heat the bare wire and the solder, then apply the solder to the joint while the soldering iron tip is in contact with the bare wire and solder tag, a good solder joint should only take about 4 or 5 seconds to make, also, never use the soldering iron tip to transfer the solder to the tip because the rosin-flux core in the solder will have gone up in smoke, the rosin-flux core of the solder is there to clean the oxides off the surface of the metals to be soldered so that the solder properly wets the metals.

What he sed!!

[candice]

Thanks for all of the updated. I have had success!
I just de-soldered it all and threaded things to the correct spots and soldered again. Was all good after that.
I still need to level the frets (lots of fret buzz) and play with the set up but I am really happy with the overall sound and feel. Looking forward to playing with it once it's all set up!

[wokkaboy]

good news Candice. Play the neck in for a few hours then looks at a fret level. It's important the neck is level when you fret level it.
The stock pups still got a pretty reasonable sound hey

[Swanny]

Well done, Candice! That looks pretty cool!