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Thread: Baking pedals

  1. #21
    It depends on your power supply, but typically the DC jacks on pedals are wired as centre negative (-ve). So, the short centre lug that connects to the tip of your powerpack is -ve and the longer edge lug is +ve. This allows the +ve to switch between battery or powerpack (with switched jacks), while the -ve is used as the pedal's master on/off via its connection to a stereo jack.
    Scott.

  2. #22
    Mentor Nickosaurus's Avatar
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    oh my. That makes sense then. I actually de-constructed a DC jack (out of frustration and having never used a 2 pin one before) and saw that the centre was connected to the short lug. I just assumed that the centre would be the positive... don't ask me why!

    welp. Will flip the DC tomorrow and see how that goes.

    Would I lose bypass signal if the current isn't going through the pedal? OR is there still another problem do you think?

  3. #23
    Mentor Nickosaurus's Avatar
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    Update:

    so I flipped the DC and the LED has come to life (hooray!) but unfortunately I'm still not getting a bypass signal. Finding this hard to troubleshoot as I don't have a schematic only the diagram...

    any ideas gents?

  4. #24
    The footswitch's bypass is mechanical, so if wired correctly should work regardless of power (assuming the switch is ok).

    Click image for larger version. 

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    The blue and yellow contacts are the signal send and return, respectively, and the red contacts are the bypass. Use your multimeter to check the continuity between the red contacts and your in/out jack tips and see what's what.

    (Oh, and buy some more damn colours!)
    Scott.

  5. #25
    Mentor Nickosaurus's Avatar
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    Haha yes sorry weirdy. Will be buying some new wire soon.

    I've got continuity between both jack tips and the red circled lugs.

  6. #26
    OK, you've got continuity between the tips, good, but you're still not getting a bypass signal? Have you checked ground continuity between the jacks? Also check that you're not getting a short with any of the other lugs on the switch. In particular, check continuity between your jack tips and ground, in case there's a short killing your bypass. The centre 'yellow' lug on the switch goes to ground in bypass, so that bare 'hot' wire running past it would be a prime candiate etc.
    Scott.

  7. #27
    Mentor Nickosaurus's Avatar
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    Ground continuity between jacks and no shorts across the switch as far as I can tell. All the continuity is correct straight off the switch.

    I've found that I lose continuity between the input sleeve's resistor and the lug 1 of the pot. I removed the resistor to test it and it was fine. I then jumped the sleeve to lug 1 and got continuity. When I jumped the resistor across there I didn't get continuity though.

    I'm getting confused

  8. #28
    Mentor Rabbitz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nickosaurus View Post
    I've found that I lose continuity between the input sleeve's resistor and the lug 1 of the pot. I removed the resistor to test it and it was fine. I then jumped the sleeve to lug 1 and got continuity. When I jumped the resistor across there I didn't get continuity though.
    Open circuit resistor?

    Wrong value resistor?

    Can you measure the resistor?

  9. #29
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    Yeah it's measuring the same as requested in the diagram. That's why I'm confused... Everything seems correct

  10. #30
    Did you check for non-continuity between the tip and sleeve of the jacks with the footswitch in bypass?

    Can you post some pics of all your wiring, green as it may be, showing the DC jack connections, the pot, jacks and switches. The bypass should be working, so there must be something awry elsewhere.
    Scott.

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