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Thread: JR-1M - warts and all

  1. #11
    No sheds involved nor special DB concoctions, although some of the products may be on the naughty list... I just knew Wokka would ask about colours and wanted to mess with him.

    Truth is, I have some colours in mind but I'm not sure if they'll work on the mahogany, plus I need to see how that crack/repair looks when sanded back before committing to a particular colour/finish.
    Scott.

  2. #12
    GAStronomist wokkaboy's Avatar
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    Dec 2012
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    Perth WA
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    13,555
    fair enough Weirdy, we can wait to see what colour this will be. Mahogany being a darker timber always makes the stain look a bit darker than it does on say basswood
    Current Builds and status
    scratch end grain pine tele - first clear coat on !
    JBA-4 - assembled - final tweaks
    Telemonster double scale tele - finish tobacco burst on body and sand neck

    Completed builds
    scratch oak.rose gum Jazzmaster - assembled needs setup
    MK-2 Mosrite - assembled - play in
    Ash tele with Baritone neck - neck pup wiring tweaks and play in

  3. #13
    Mentor kells80aus's Avatar
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    Jan 2014
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    Wyndham Vale, Vic
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    775
    Hey Wierdy,

    take a close look around the edge of the deck. one of my supposedly mahogany LP Juniors was laminated.
    When I was sanding it the glue line popped out to say Hi.

    Cheers Kellza
    Kellza
    (PK)
    "Jack of all trades, Master of None"
    "You'll never ever know if you don't have a go"

    https://www.facebook.com/PaulWKelly

    Avatar Image is a "The headstock of my first scratchy"

  4. #14
    Thanks PK, no sign of a veneer as far as I can tell, just 'hog start to finish.

    Speaking of swine, I dug out the aluminium Pigtail bridge I've been saving and… wow, what a difference. A fraction of the weight, way lower, and lots of adjustment.

    Stock bridge: 117g, max height 18mm
    Pigtail bridge: 44g, max height 13mm

    In reality, the height difference is greater still as the Pigtail has stepped hooks to account for the post lugs whereas the stock bridge doesn't.

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    I decided to try the Pigtail just like the stock bridge, with no adjustments to the neck, break angle etc, so that I could compare the action between the two bridges. I also switched to the locking studs.

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    Scott.

  5. #15
    Here's the resulting change in action at the last fret, stock bridge top and Pigtail bottom. Big difference:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    It's actually slightly too low, but only just, and the saddles aren't even notched yet. But, I'll need to straighten the neck and flatten the neck heel before deciding if I need to tweak the angle.

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    Scale length would put the saddles around mid-travel without needing to touch the post intonation screws. Those screws have less travel than the stock bridge, but the saddles have a lot more adjustment.

    I wasn't going to use the Pigtail on this build, but now I don't think I can resist. There's nothing wrong with the stock bridge and it would only take a few tweaks to get the action right, but the aluminium bridge is much more in line with what I'm aiming for.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Scott.

  6. #16
    Overlord of Music keloooe's Avatar
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    Interesting to see this one play out...

  7. #17
    Very comprehensive Weirdy, I was expecting nothing less. Thanks mate, appreciated.
    Cheers,

    Adam



    adamboyle(at)pitbullguitars.com

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