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Thread: Build Thread: Stans 57 Harmony Jazz project

  1. #71
    GAStronomist stan's Avatar
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    Some help please team:

    OK: I have a truss rod, a router and a fingerboard blank made of blackwood. Some fretwire, and a radiussed sanding block: 12"

    I'm pretty happy about making the fingerboard.

    Adding the truss rod is another matter.

    Is it simply a case of routing for the truss rod?
    Anything special I need to consider?
    It has one "open" side ,it appear that faces down...
    I have seen full depth routes and ones that partially go into the fingerboard as well (sandwiching the truss rod between, with the fingerboard having a fine rout as well...)

    I have marked out a centre line on the neck, and the next step is the route...

    Oh, this is the truss rod:

    370mm Martin style
    http://luthierssupplies.com.au/produ...roducts_id=175


    Their instructions:

    INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

    ‘Martin style’ truss rods must be installed with the open taped side down towards the back of the neck and the flat aluminium side up towards the fingerboard.

    We recommend that the slot for the truss rod be cut 0.5-1.0mm deeper than the depth of the truss rod. A 0.5-1.0mm fillet of timber should be used to cover the truss rod and fill the 0.5-1.0mm space above it.

    The truss rod can be glued in place with some epoxy glue on the sides and top only, then the fillet of timber is placed on top of the truss rod and held or clamped in place while the epoxy dries.

    The fillet and glue are then sanded flat to the top surface of the neck leaving a flat surface for the fingerboard to be glued.

    IMPORTANT – Do not allow any glue to go on or into the open/taped side of the truss rod or around the nut as this may cause it to jam.

  2. #72
    Mentor jarrod's Avatar
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    Groove side down Stan so the flat plate can push against your fret board. slot must be a nice tight to push in fit and sit .5mm under the neck face. then run some tape along the top so she don't rattle and glue your fret board on.I don't glue them , I make them a good fit.

  3. #73
    GAStronomist stan's Avatar
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    Thanks Jarrod, so tape is enough, I don't have to put a slither of timber over the top?

    So if I have it right - route a tight channel, .5mm below neck height, groove side down, tape and fingerboard?

    Groove side has tape on it - remove?

    Trick will be placement at the headstock end

  4. #74
    GAStronomist stan's Avatar
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    i presume the tape on top only goes on the truss rod to make up the depth, and not across it onto the exposed neck - otherwise you would be gluing the fingerboard onto the tape...?

  5. #75
    Mentor jarrod's Avatar
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    Na leave there tape on , You could put a slither of wood in but I let it press on the fret board. Have your hex head just under your nut like your LP . don't router it too long you want it to bottom out with the hex head in the right position.This how the great profit DB taught me and it works a treat.

  6. #76
    Mentor jarrod's Avatar
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    sorry Stan yes tape only on the trust rod

  7. #77
    GAStronomist stan's Avatar
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    cheers mate, time to make a neck routing jig , me thinks...

  8. #78
    GAStronomist stan's Avatar
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    toys and supplies for the new fingerboard (old one also in shot):


  9. #79
    Mentor jarrod's Avatar
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    Great stuff Stan

  10. #80
    GAStronomist stan's Avatar
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    Thanks Jarrod, I think making a routing jig for the truss rod pocket in situ will be the biggest trick... Everything I have watched on youtube is done on a neck blank with nice even sides. Either an angled fence and shallow router passes or find a way to add a guide to the neck and several dremmel passes

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