Tims IB-6SL

[bargeloobs]

/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/Quote from Timsan on May 28, 2014, 08:57


The black hardware looks quite nice against the maple...


and I think I'll go for the Warwick-style raked machine head configuration.

I think you're right, totally natural offset by the black hardware will be the fricken balls. That top is amazing.
You going gloss or satin?

[Timsan]

Unsure yet... I hadn't considered satin, but now my interest is piqued.

But either way I think I'm going to get the colourless finish with the aging tint mixed in (it's not really "colourless", then, but that's beside the point). There's just enough in that to add a bit of warmth and bring the grain out without going overboard.

[stan]

very nice Tim, it looks superb

[wokkaboy]

wow Tim thats probably the most figured cap I've seen on these kits, looks amazing. Tinted clear sounds like a great option. I did mine in amber and tru oil and it gave it a hint of light brown. You don't want to hide any of that figure so clear is the go mate ! This should turn out a very cool bass !

[Timsan]

So... first question for this build.

I didn't have this problem with the LP-1SS I built, because the holes for the bridge were pre-drilled.

But... This one is my first where I have to measure for the bridge. How do I do this when both the neck and the bridge aren't fixed in place yet?

[Gavin1393]

I'd fix them in place before deciding where the bridge must go.

[wokkaboy]

Tim there's 2 ways to do this, is there much 'play' in the neck and neck pocket ?
If not I'd drill 2 neck holes in the neck and fit the screws (don't drill all 5 in case you need a bit of final alignment adjustment later), fit both outside tuners and run the 2 outer strings to the bridge then you can get the alignment of the string offset. I'd measure distance from nut to 12th fret and add 5mm to this and measure that from 12th fret to centreline of neck and put a piece of tape across the body where the bridge saddles should go. From memory these bridges have a fair bit of saddle movement forward/rearward, but work on the low B string being a

[wokkaboy]

Tim, this is the most important part of the build, I'd drill 2 holes in the neck (don't drill all 5 in case you need a small alignment adjustment later). Measure nut to 12th fret distance. Add 5mm. Measure this from 12th fret to bottom of the body and mark off this distance with a piece of masking tape. This will be where your low B saddle should be sitting. String up 2 outer stings and align the bridge so string offsets are about the same and drill the bridge in. The bridge saddles have at least 10mm of play from memory. Here's my build diary but doesn't go into too much detail
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/commun...wtopic&t=891.8

[Timsan]

Schweet... thanks Wokka.

There isn't much play in the neck pocket at all, thankfully.

[wokkaboy]

no worries Tim. Just try and get the bridge square, it will look terrible if its on an angle. Wind the bottom treble saddle all the way forward. If 'N' is the distance nut to 12th fret this bottom treble saddle shouldn't be closer to the 12th fret than 'N'. Typically the low B heavy string will be about 5-7mm further than 'N' but you will work this out when you do the intonation. Good luck mate ! These are in my opinion one of the best looking PBG kits