True Rose

[kanelangmaid]

Added 3 clear coats today after a 2 hour search for another litre of acrylic - not much seemed open today.

Happy to say it matches nicely with the back of the guitar.



Ended up with 2 coats of japan black + a run (ah well), sort that later. Seems to have done the trick.



Ended up staining the fret board with one coat of japan black then quickly tested some beeswax polish which darkened it that little bit more.

Should look alright - pics on assembly in a couple of days once it has dried properly.

[stan]

looking good, want to see the finger board, i have similar ideas for a coming project

[kanelangmaid]

Stan,
Will finish the beeswax tonight & try a get a pic tomorrow with real sunlight.

[gavinturner]

Love the back of the headstock and neck! The grain hghlighted in black looks great. I am also interested in the fingerboard stained and waxed. How do you think it will play?

cheers,
Gav.

[kanelangmaid]

Gav,

I used one of those market stall home brew "leather conditioner/furniture polish" blah blah blah. Used it on my bike jackets a bit seems good.
Once it has had time to soak in, should play slick. All done now. Might assemble it tomorrow for a pic on the lawn.

Anyone help my with type of decal paper to use for a white logo? My cream logo on clear decal paper wouldn't show through the stain.

[gavinturner]

For white decals, the best option I have found is to get a vinyl decal printed at a commercial printers. It usually doesn't cost too much. Our very own Andyport does this kind of stuff and can definitely sort you out. I can highly recommend him - his work is awesome! You can contact him at City Signs and Print in Port Lincoln SA - email address is: citysigns@internode.on.net.

cheers,
Gav.

[kanelangmaid]

Thanks Gav. Will send Andyport an email.

Here is the guitar. 3 coats of clear & 3 just completed now.



Couldn't get a great shot of the fretboard. Once it is dry will try again and then show a comparison. It is nice and slick.



Yay, my presents just turned up. Pickup winding in my spare time waiting for clear coat to dry.



Lastly - does anyone know how to get rid of stain from fret dots? I have lost a few of the top ones from 12th down. Metho didn't remove these ones.

Also I noticed that a few of the frets have been hammered in so hard the fret board is cracked in a few spots. I was going to tap a few of the high ones down as there are gaps but not when I noticed this. Anyone else have this issue.

[jarrod]

Kane it looks truly stunning, My question to you is with your acrylic clear do you use anything to seal the wood before you apply it. I use 2pk but due to the health hazards I am seriously thinking of moving to acrylic clears so I was curious to know if the wood needs to be sealed or does the clear do that anyway.

[kanelangmaid]

Jarrod,
I normally seal with timbermate after the first batch of sanding on new wood. The timbermate seals and fills the grain. Although I am starting to think once I have sanded it flat filling it with timbermate again. With this guitar I had a few spots where the clear coat seemed to have sunk in a few spots leaving a couple of grain holes. For me it just wasn't 100% smooth. Still considering wet sanding an adding another clear coat or two yet.
Once I have the timbermate sanded flat and happy with the sanding I used the feast and Watson stains. Once they had a day or two to dry I hit them with a light clear coat, followed by two heavier coats on the first day. After 24hrs I give them another 3 coats. From here is usually some levelling work preparing for final clear coats.

[kanelangmaid]

Almost there, playing it a bit before trying to get it setup right. Small adjustments here and there.