it's actually here:/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/Quote from dingobass on July 23, 2013, 20:11
Wow.... Thanks for pointing that out... will have to remove that from the instructions!
http://www.wudtone.com/forum/wp-cont...uitar-Neck.pdf
two references on the first page related to application to the fingerboard, one ambiguous at best, and the other just seems strange.
Rosewood fretboard and as dark as possible without completely losing the grain
As most of would know (or guess), if not treated (i.e. varnished, oiled, etc.) all timber will "fade" somewhat from its initial and lustrous post-milled state ... even if not exposed to sunlight and the elements - primarily because the naturally occurring oils in the timber will evaporate over time with along with the moisture content of the timber (tho' at much slower rate) ... and it's a stabilised moisture content that give timber instruments most of their tonal qualities (especially acoustic but also electrified instruments)
... I know I'm not telling any of you anything you don't already know, but its a lead into the following ...
someone mentioned "bore oil" (as in the bore of a woodwind instrument like clarinet - not an engine bore that I though of when I first came across the term!) ... and from most reports bore oil seem to be the traditional "treatment of choice" for timber instruments.
Tim - I've got the same quandary as you with the rosewood fingerboard on my SG not being anywhere near as dark as Id prefer (or expect) ... primarily (but not totally) due to the timber having faded somewhat. In an effort to find the best solution rather than just the easiest I did come across some very interesting information and products ...
"Bore Doctor" and "Fret Doctor" - don't be confused as I was until I spoke with their creator, they are exactly the same product just with different labels to market to different clientele (woodwind-ers as opposed to guitarists).
DISCLAIMER - I haven't used this product myself (yet) and would be very interested to hear from someone who has - but nearly all the talk on int'l (i.e. USA) forums rave about the stuff! Nor have I been able track down anyone in Aust who seels the stuff retail tho that doesn't mean there no-one out there! ... let me know if you know of someone
A very interesting analysis of oils for timber instruments can found here ...
http://www.beafifer.com/boredoctor.htm
... and if you're considering buying some I'd buy it from his site as his prices are the same as the products creator but his postage costs to Aust are incredibly cheaper!
The website of the creator (the Doctor, himself and woodwind specialist) is here ... http://doctorsprod.com/cbuy/
... if you're in the mood for shock check out his postage prices! (that why I'd suggest the first site for a purchase). Have spoken direct with the doctor and he's not adverse to (conditionally) selling it in bulk quantities for people to on-sell (something I've been considering solely to make a good product more readily available)
As I said if anyone's heard about this or had experience with it I'd like to hear your thoughts before I mortgage the missus to get a bottle (yes the postage is not cheap at all for some unknown reason) ... or if someone else buys a large amount is looking for a taker of some of it, count me in!.
I hope this rather long-winded post at least provides some interest
Cheers!
Wait a minute ... that sounds like Rock and/or Roll!
SG-1 ... "Little Miss" finished in Flamenco Cherry Wudtone
TL-1A ... "Slugger" finished in Antique White Nitro
EX-1 ... "Metal God" finished in nickel-plate (work in progress)
ST-1A ... "Scrapper" stained and finished in linseed oil ... and with the "secret weapon"
GR-1SF ... "Rocker-billy" (just arrived, work in progress)
Hmmmmm. I was going to use Dr Ducks Axe Wax until I read your post Scott.
I would definitely be interested in the opinions of the experts around here!
Cheers,
Rohan.
Go for Dr Ducks. It is a well known and widely used product and you can get it practically every where and it is usually reasonably priced and a tin will last forever!
There is always a workaround for glitches, mistakes and other Guitar building gremlins.....
Love the Dr Ducks - couple of drops and you're done...
Current builds:
GPB-4B: https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...548#post184548
Just don't spill it on your pants. They'll never be the same!Quote from Brendan on August 24, 2013, 18:59
Love the Dr Ducks - couple of drops and you're done...
Current:
GTH-1
Completed:
AST-1FB
First Act ME276 (resurrected curb-side find)
ES-5V
Scratchie lapsteel
Custom ST-1 12 String
JBA-4
TL-1TB
Scratch Lapsteel
Meinl DIY Cajon
Cigar Box lap steel
Wishing:
Baritone
Open D/Standard Double 6 twin neck
If the guru's swear by Dr Ducks then hardly seems worth to split the difference between it and bore oil (e.g. fret doctor) ... which I'd be surprised if in the long there's really going to be that much difference ... except in the price and convenience factors in favour of Dr Ducks
... and dare I ask ...
... just what "wood" were you trying to preserve?Just don't spill it on your pants. They'll never be the same!
... no, on second thoughts I'm not even going to think about!
Wait a minute ... that sounds like Rock and/or Roll!
SG-1 ... "Little Miss" finished in Flamenco Cherry Wudtone
TL-1A ... "Slugger" finished in Antique White Nitro
EX-1 ... "Metal God" finished in nickel-plate (work in progress)
ST-1A ... "Scrapper" stained and finished in linseed oil ... and with the "secret weapon"
GR-1SF ... "Rocker-billy" (just arrived, work in progress)
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