Esquire-esque

[fender3x]

Just got to figure out how to set it properly on a three-barrel bridge (which I've decided I do not like - I much prefer the "modern" 6 saddle bridge).

I decided to go the six-saddle route as well, but if you want to keep it stock you might consider ordering a set of compensated saddles:

[EsquireEsque]

Here's a vid that might be relevant to your situation. I thought I had this going on with a 40 year old Acoustic. It turned out to be something else on that guitar, but this might be helpful to you.

Thanks for that - I had tried a "normal" hammer - probably hurt the frets!
I had first tried putting apiece of wood on the fret and hammering that - but it only resulted in the fret denting the wood.
I also didn't use a brace behind the neck - so it probably "bounced"......
Well - we only learn from mistakes!

I'll have to get a "fretting hammer" and a neck brace.... unless I can find substitutes.

[EsquireEsque]

Oops! That *might* be useful, but was not the vid I meant to send...



This is the one I meant to send.

It was - this one uses a glue that might be harder to find (although I've never looked for a super glue with a few minutes curing time - most I've seen cure in seconds).......

I think that "jaws" thing would have a couple of uses - not only repairing frets but putting new ones in. it'd make it worthwhile ordering a neck without frets, or take them out, and put in stainless steel rather than getting a "fret press" (and saving a lot of bench space)... I wonder if its available locally (anything from the US is "pricy" and the freight charges are somewhat ridiculous)i

[EsquireEsque]

I decided to go the six-saddle route as well, but if you want to keep it stock you might consider ordering a set of compensated saddles:

It's not the intonation that I don't like - I can probably work that out - it's more that they're uncomfortable if you put the heel of your hand on them to partially mute the string (both with the grub screws and the twisted end of the strings (i prefer top loaded bridges).

It's a pity as I like the look of the three barrels, particularly if brass, also the six-barrel bridges (but I understand these have a few problems.....)

[fender3x]

I had a Strat bridge where the grub screws were bothering my hand. I got advice from someone here (McCreed, maybe?) to get shorter grub screws. I found an assortment cheap somewhere so now anytime a grub screw bothers my palm, I replace it with a shorter one ;-)

I like the Stew Mac tool as well. They are always great for the independently wealthy luthier. They are, ridiculously expensive, no mater where you live. $420 US as shown in the vid. If I find a loose fret, I will either use the radius block trick, or adapt a one handed clamp to do it.

I think the wood block is a fine idea. You'd want a relatively hard wood. I have a hammer that I have a cheap hammer with replaceable hard plastic ends that has worked relatively well for me, but you do need to have something reasonably hard under the neck, as you found out.

[fender3x]

BTW the Superglue he uses in the vid dries in 3-5 seconds, so you have to move fast ;-) ... I think it's just ordinary CA glue.

[EsquireEsque]

I had a Strat bridge where the grub screws were bothering my hand. I got advice from someone here (McCreed, maybe?) to get shorter grub screws. I found an assortment cheap somewhere so now anytime a grub screw bothers my palm, I replace it with a shorter one ;-)

I like the Stew Mac tool as well. They are always great for the independently wealthy luthier. They are, ridiculously expensive, no mater where you live. $420 US as shown in the vid. If I find a loose fret, I will either use the radius block trick, or adapt a one handed clamp to do it.

I think the wood block is a fine idea. You'd want a relatively hard wood. I have a hammer that I have a cheap hammer with replaceable hard plastic ends that has worked relatively well for me, but you do need to have something reasonably hard under the neck, as you found out.

How do you adapt a "one handed clamp to it"..... I'm getting ideas as I type - but if you've already got it down I'd love to see how you actually do it.
Do you have a piece of wood with a "bump" on either end to press down on the fret ends?

[EsquireEsque]

BTW the Superglue he uses in the vid dries in 3-5 seconds, so you have to move fast ;-) ... I think it's just ordinary CA glue.

I've never been "good" with fast drying glue" ... always find a way to ruin it!

[fender3x]

Did a bit more reading and even with CA glue it takes a minute or two to fully cure.

As to how... I was referring to one of these clamps:



I haven't done it for fixing frets, but I have done something similar to clamp a neck. Here's my idea...

In the pic, the clamp has two yellow pads. I would leave one in place for the bottom of the neck. On the top I would pull off the yellow pad and make sure the plastic was very flat. I'd make a caul out of a piece of hardwood that was about 1/2 inch thick, 1/2 inch tall, and a little wider than the fretboard. I would would put a radius on one of the 1/2 inch sides. I'd use double sticky tape to stick the flat side of the caul to the non-padded side of the clamp.

The trick would be making the radius. I have done this before to make cauls for clamping the neck, and something similar to make pickup rings that matched the radius of an archtop guitar. Here's how I made clamping cauls:

I have a 12 inch radius block (which is the radius of all PB necks and most of the "radius unspecified" necks you find on the internet). With the radius block I would put a radius on a piece of scrap wood. Softwood is fine for this part. Once I have a radius on the scrap wood, I slap a piece of sandpaper on it and use it to put a reverse radius on my hardwood caul. Not fast or elegant, but I am guessing it would work to fix a few frets.

[EsquireEsque]

Did a bit more reading and even with CA glue it takes a minute or two to fully cure.

As to how... I was referring to one of these clamps:



I haven't done it for fixing frets, but I have done something similar to clamp a neck. Here's my idea...

In the pic, the clamp has two yellow pads. I would leave one in place for the bottom of the neck. On the top I would pull off the yellow pad and make sure the plastic was very flat. I'd make a caul out of a piece of hardwood that was about 1/2 inch thick, 1/2 inch tall, and a little wider than the fretboard. I would would put a radius on one of the 1/2 inch sides. I'd use double sticky tape to stick the flat side of the caul to the non-padded side of the clamp.

The trick would be making the radius. I have done this before to make cauls for clamping the neck, and something similar to make pickup rings that matched the radius of an archtop guitar. Here's how I made clamping cauls:

I have a 12 inch radius block (which is the radius of all PB necks and most of the "radius unspecified" necks you find on the internet). With the radius block I would put a radius on a piece of scrap wood. Softwood is fine for this part. Once I have a radius on the scrap wood, I slap a piece of sandpaper on it and use it to put a reverse radius on my hardwood caul. Not fast or elegant, but I am guessing it would work to fix a few frets.

I see.

Interesting.

I do not have a radius block. But you are making an ingenious suggestion.....

On that train of thought - a 12" radius is where the circle would have a 12 inch radius - so any cylinder with a 24 inch diameter would make a good "reverse radius" to slap some sandpaper on..... like a large pot plant holder?????