Esquire-esque

[EsquireEsque]

Book matching may account for the price difference, here and there. I tend to think that's more of an acoustic or veneer thing. I think a nicely figured piece of wood can be really nice. I know people go crazy about quartersawn necks, because they are supposed to be more stable. I haven't really had stability problems with flatsawn necks, though, and they tend to make for much nicer patterns on the headstock.

I'm admittedly a bit of a novice - and as such I've always only thought of quarter sawn pieces of wood to be a decorative issue only (to my mind bookmatched veneers are a case in point)... I might (probably?) be missing something..... but the vast bulk of Fender guitars are not quarter sawn.

Like you , I think a "nice piece of wood" is just as good in a practical sense - and in some cases (for a tele, for example) fits with the concept of a "working guitar" as opposed to the bookmatched bodies which seem to be more a "image" thing (which is fair enough).... for that matter - in my internet "wanderings" I've seen 4 to 6 piece bodies in a number of body shapes with a clear finish that seem to "fit" aesthetically ....

[fender3x]

What is often most interesting is not what you start with, but how it ends up ;-)

[EsquireEsque]

Well I've decided to shave the top off and put a "cap" of about 2 mm on top.

I've also re-shaped the body a bit (not sure about the top "horn" though) and I'll need to start hand sanding the shape smooth.

I've (roughly) routed where the pickup and control panel will go.
Later I will deepen the routs and tidy them up a bit - then put shielding in and cover the small trench (from the pickup rout to the control panel) before I put the cap on and then use the thicknesser to bring it down to about 2 mm making the body 38-ish mm thick.

Then I'll drill into the control panel and the pickup rout and use a "bearing bit" to open them up neatly.



I'm thinking I might "cut up" the pickguard and shape a control panel while I wait for a piece of aluminium to arrive.

If it works I can use it as a template on the aluminium.

I'm informed that trying to chrome plate something is "dangerous" (as I have no idea of what I'd be doing I'll agree with that!) so I wonder how a copper plated control panel would look if nickel is not right amongst a lot of chrome....?

[fender3x]

I like the way it's coming together!

I'm informed that trying to chrome plate something is "dangerous" (as I have no idea of what I'd be doing I'll agree with that!) so I wonder how a copper plated control panel would look if nickel is not right amongst a lot of chrome....?

I have zero experience with chrome plating, but I have done a little experimenting with removing chrome (or nickle?) plating.



Neck plates are generally copper that has been plated with chrome or nickle. I played around a bit with seeing if I could create a design by removing some of the nickle. I was able to do so, but copper oxidizes quickly. In fact the one on the right was pretty well oxidized before I was finished etching away the chrome.

You could probably plate aluminum with copper, but you'd need to get it well polished and then coat it with clear lacquer to keep it from oxidizing. Also, from a toxicology standpoint, I am not sure how much better the copper plating process is than nickle plating.

The voltages are low in the process so the danger is mostly in inhaling dust or fumes. That said, it seems most risky for people who work in the electroplating or welding industry. You would be using it on a very small scale. If you do it in a well ventilated area or outside, I am guessing it should not be too much of an issue....but it's also well out of my area of expertise!

[EsquireEsque]

I've actually just come across a thing called "Bare metal foil" which is a very thin metal foil (0.1 of a mm) with a sticky backing ... the process seems to resemble putting on a "gold leaf". Apparently it's used a lot in model making (model cars and planes).

I came across it while I was looking for a laminate scorer (to cut the Aluminium).

It comes in Chrome, Copper, silver, gold etc.

So now I'm thinking if I cut out/shape the new control panel - theoretically I cover that with this foil and burnish it into a seamless covering, and then I think it'd be best cover it with an acrylic spray since it's so thin....

[EsquireEsque]

Well I've put the shielding in and the cap on and trimmed it all up and it's looking ok....


I then shaped a new longer control panel out of aluminium and was very happy with it.
I then put in the holes for screws and the pots.

It was looking really good right up until the last hole - for the oputput jack...


I think I pressed the drill press a bit too hard and the drill bit moved to the side.....next time, I think that rather than simply use a "punch" I'll also drill a small hole (like for the screws) first before I try the wider drill bit.

I've ordered another piece of aluminium - but I think I'll use this effort to try out the chrome sheets (Bare metal foil), as I haven't used it before.

[Dikkybee007]

I know I am late to the party but just a few things.

All of my neck plates are steel and not copper as they all are magnetic while copper isn't. From my experience with chrome plating they use a base material in the form of copper to make the chrome adhere to the item no matter what the item is made of as some materials will not allow chrome to be applied. Copper will adhere to most materials and chrome will adhere to copper. Its about the same as using shellac before applying your finish. Shellac goes onto anything and seals and then you can apply anything over the top.

As for the switch plate drills tend to wander if they are blunt or run too slow and pushed to hard. I take it you centre punched the hole position as if not then it will again wander. When drilling ally use a fairly fast speed, you can google the correct speed to use, and let the drill cut at its own pace and try just taking small steps and not hang off the end of the handle. Of course I take it you clamped the work to the drill press and you had set it up so the drill was above where you wanted it. Using a smaller drill before using a larger drill is always advised if you want it accurately but isn't mandatory. As an apprentice I had to drill a series of holes that had 0.5mm between each hole and it was done on a drill press but if you do it correctly its easy. For every 0.1mm the hole was out of position I lost a mark and there was 10 holes.

If you want to replicate a chrome finish have you thought about stainless? Stainless doesn't tarnish or oxidise the same as ally and doesn't require a finish being applied to keep its bright finish. It does cost more than the ally but for me it isn't as easy to mark and will last longer. Stainless is a little harder to drill as you run the drills much slower but if you do a correct setup its easy. I would also use some oil or water when drilling to keep the drill cool. Just take your time and just take small steps. I can do it using a hand drill but I have been drilling for over 40 years so to me its easy. Stainless can be polished to a very high sheen and wont tarnish as easy. You can wipe some thin oil / WD-40 over the surface and clean with a piece of paper towel and it will preserve the shine. Don't use a cleaner as it will remove the oil, just use dry paper towel.

[EsquireEsque]

Thanks DikkyBee07,

Yes - I read up on electroplating and found the same - but I don't think I'll be trying that myself. Apparently there's a lot of rather toxic chemicals involved.

I did think of making the control plate in copper and have it electroplated - but while I haven't got a quote, indications are that it's rather "pricey" - so I'll reserve that as a last option.

I think Stainless steel is a bit too difficult to fabricate (and I've only just learned how to do Aluminium!).

Yes - as well as using a punch to position holes - I'll use a smaller drill to make a smaller pilot hole first with the next control panel. Meanwhile I'll use this one to practice the "bare-metal-foil" on.

[EsquireEsque]

The body's all "finished" apart from the "finish" (I'm just putting Danish oil on it) and the neck has been bolted on.

Grip around frets 22 to 18 are is a bit "square" because of the backplate - but it seems ok overall. First "air guitar" gives the impression that it's a pretty comfortable shape.

I'll position the bridge over the next couple of days and look to putting the tuners and strap buttons on.
Then it's putting the Danish oil on - and then the wiring (provided I get the control plate how I want it.

[EsquireEsque]

Dry fitting with the tuners, the bridge, the strap buttons and the soon to be replaced) control panel....



I might trim back where the top strap button is.....