Astracaster First Build FS-1

[JamKo]

I have done a mist coat of 1k Rattle Can Clear. It's been raining here everyday evening. So going slow on the further coat to let the clear dry (and ready to play bongo casino - have you tried it? try it, it's fun!), despite the can saying that flash time is just 15 minutes.

The trigger handle is not helping much as I feel it is not pressing the cap well. I may have to return it and see it I could get a better fitting one.



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If it has been raining, the humidity level was high. And any paint will not dry well in high humidity.

[fender3x]

On my first build I used Duplicolor, an auto paint that lots of people have gotten good results with. In my case it never hardened properly. I think the most likely culprit was humidity, heat or both in the original application. I followed or exceeded the directions for drying and curing times, but to no avail.

While I have not done a scientific study of this, I have noticed a lot of folks here, and elsewhere on the web, seem to do their spraying in a climate controlled environment, or outside during periods of the year when the weather is right.

Over time, I have come to use only shellac or products that are water-based. Either kind of paint can trap moisture when the humidity is high. With solvent based finishes, I think what happens is that moisture can get trapped under or in the finish. The surface may harden, but what's under it may not. They will eventually gas-off the solvent but the water remains.

Something similar can happen with water based finishes. However, water based finishes are designed to gas-off water vapor. I suspect that with some water based finishes this the high humidity doesn't stop the gassing off process, but rather just slows it down.

I have found a good rattle can spray paint that is water based and seems to produce a good finish no matter how humid it is here (MTN94). That's good since our average temps range between 27-37C, and I can only spray outside. Unfortunately my luck has not been as good with MTN's spray on varnish that is designed to cover MTM94. The varnish is solvent based.

The clear coats that I use are only spray-able with the right equipment (which I don't have), so I brush it on. I can brush in my garage, which is semi-climate controlled. Hotter and more humid than the rest of the house...but since we only run the AC in the garage when someone (me) is in there it can be relatively warm and humid too. The good news is that all the Crystalac and General Finishes products I have used harden just fine. The bad news is that I need to give them at least them the maximum time that the mfg recommends to cure...and usually a bit more. The worse news is that I have to get enough finish on to be able to sand out the brush strokes...and then I have to sand out the brush strokes. This takes a long time to get flat without going through the finish.

I have had reasonable with stains but only when I have used fairly expensive products from General Finishes and Crystalac. In both cases, also water based. Which means it can swell the wood, so you need to be diligent about raising the grain.

This is a very lengthy way of saying that if you can't control the heat and humidity, you may need to find products that work in the climate you have. That could take some experimenting. Shellac, of course, was developed in India and definitely works there. I'd be curious what people who finish wood there use, or what tips and tricks they recommend. I also suspect that anything that works for you will work for me as well ;-)

[Drashkum]

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This is a very lengthy way of saying that if you can't control the heat and humidity, you may need to find products that work in the climate you have. That could take some experimenting. Shellac, of course, was developed in India and definitely works there. I'd be curious what people who finish wood there use, or what tips and tricks they recommend. I also suspect that anything that works for you will work for me as well ;-)

There aren't so many products available in India as in Australia or Europe Or USA. So i may have to find a way to do these with what ever that's available which may or may not suit the Humidity and Heat in chennai in india.



My 1k PU clear Rattle can spit out clear unevenly yesterday as I forgot to clean nozzle with thinner before spraying . Can I do more clear on this or do I need to sand and then clearcoat it again. This is just my 2nd coat of 1k clear out of rattle can.. If i need to sand what grit should i use?

Please do advise

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[Drashkum]

There aren't so many products available in India as in Australia or Europe Or USA. So i may have to find a way to do these with what ever that's available which may or may not suit the Humidity and Heat in chennai in india.



My 1k PU clear Rattle can spit out clear unevenly yesterday as I forgot to clean nozzle with thinner before spraying . Can I do more clear on this or do I need to sand and then clearcoat it again. This is just my 2nd coat of 1k clear out of rattle can.. If i need to sand what grit should i use?

Please do advise

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I realised that it was just solvent pop. So i allowed it to dry and then sanded back lightly with 600 grit and wiped with thinner

The I did another coat of clear and now it's looks much better



I hope this Is sort of ok

Iam into 3rd coat of clear and it though has some shine, it is not turning out to be Glossy. It looks like more of a misty clear coat

It looks like this now

https://youtube.com/shorts/n4B4AfpjkG0?feature=shared

Am I doing anything wrong. Am I spraying from too far?. Should i spray more thicker sort of a wet coat? Or will the gloss come after I sand the whole guitar with 600 grit after 3 more coats and spray again?

Kindly experts here do let me know.

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[Drashkum]

After 3 coats of clear, I have gone ahead and slightly sanded the clear for more coats with p400 grit. I have made sure that I don't go through the clear coat






There are too many high and low spots from pics and video down below you can see.

https://youtube.com/shorts/Yr7pd8pYKcs?feature=shared

Do u need to build up many coats. How do I get a even coat of clear from spraying? Is that possible?

Also How do I level sand a arch top like this? I don't think using a block can give a very level surface of a arch top.?

Any Suggestions appreciated



Finally Have done a Reflective Vinyl Logo on headstock. It's not as thin as a Waterslide decal. But i dont thing I would mind the raised logo. Will try to spray Clear over it



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[fender3x]

I would be very interested in how you made your logo. I really like it!

Offhand, I would say that you need to add more clear. Enough so that you can sand flat without going through. Depending on your finish that could be a few or a quite a lot. I use a brush on finish...and I use 6-10 coats. People who use TruOil will wipe on 30-60. I have the least experience with spraying...I think you are using 1x which will require more...but how much more I am not sure. Until you are confident about not sanding through.

There are lots of kinds of clear. I tried to figure out what your clear is made of, but without much success. If you are using a clear that is solvent based like shellac or nitro, the layers melt into each other. It should not be a problem to put on lots of layers. You don't really need to sand much in between unless you have a bug or bubbles caught in the finish, since the new layer will dissolve into the last layer.

If you are using a water-based finish it attaches, but does not melt into, the layer below it (at least not much). I have had good luck with the water based finishes I use, but I have heard that there can be problems if anything comes between the coats. It's important to follow the directions carefully.

As with all things finishing, it's a good idea to test first. I know you tested your stains on some scrap wood. This would be a time to do multiple coats of your finish to see how it looks and how it sands back. I have several "finish test coasters" on my desk.

How do you sand a curvy-es body? With great care. Sanding block wont work. I use 2"x2" piece of EPS foam (as comes in packing) for the flat or convex parts. I use a 1 3/4" wood dowel in the concave parts of the sides. I use fingers for the concave parts of the top and back. It's hard and you have to be careful. When in doubt I use fingers and go slowly. I try just sand very small areas at a time with fingers. Especially with the coarsest grits. With the coarsest I will sometimes try not to put more pressure than the weight of the sandpaper on the finish. That's not really possible, but the idea is to put only enough pressure on the sandpaper for it to work, not enough to "dig in" or sand through.

This is one of the reasons I haven't finished my current project. I need to have a few uninterrupted hours to go slowly and to concentrate while I do it.

You may have better luck with this than I do. My hands are definitely not those of a surgeon! Also since I apply with a brush, I have brush marks to take out. Spraying puts on thinner coats, but doesn't doesn't have brush strokes. I think most people think that's a good trade ;-)

[Drashkum]

I would be very interested in how you made your logo. I really like it!

Offhand, I would say that you need to add more clear. Enough so that you can sand flat without going through. Depending on your finish that could be a few or a quite a lot. I use a brush on finish...and I use 6-10 coats. People who use TruOil will wipe on 30-60. I have the least experience with spraying...I think you are using 1x which will require more...but how much more I am not sure. Until you are confident about not sanding through.

There are lots of kinds of clear. I tried to figure out what your clear is made of, but without much success. If you are using a clear that is solvent based like shellac or nitro, the layers melt into each other. It should not be a problem to put on lots of layers. You don't really need to sand much in between unless you have a bug or bubbles caught in the finish, since the new layer will dissolve into the last layer.

If you are using a water-based finish it attaches, but does not melt into, the layer below it (at least not much). I have had good luck with the water based finishes I use, but I have heard that there can be problems if anything comes between the coats. It's important to follow the directions carefully.

As with all things finishing, it's a good idea to test first. I know you tested your stains on some scrap wood. This would be a time to do multiple coats of your finish to see how it looks and how it sands back. I have several "finish test coasters" on my desk.

How do you sand a curvy-es body? With great care. Sanding block wont work. I use 2"x2" piece of EPS foam (as comes in packing) for the flat or convex parts. I use a 1 3/4" wood dowel in the concave parts of the sides. I use fingers for the concave parts of the top and back. It's hard and you have to be careful. When in doubt I use fingers and go slowly. I try just sand very small areas at a time with fingers. Especially with the coarsest grits. With the coarsest I will sometimes try not to put more pressure than the weight of the sandpaper on the finish. That's not really possible, but the idea is to put only enough pressure on the sandpaper for it to work, not enough to "dig in" or sand through.

This is one of the reasons I haven't finished my current project. I need to have a few uninterrupted hours to go slowly and to concentrate while I do it.

You may have better luck with this than I do. My hands are definitely not those of a surgeon! Also since I apply with a brush, I have brush marks to take out. Spraying puts on thinner coats, but doesn't doesn't have brush strokes. I think most people think that's a good trade ;-)

Thank you @fender3x.
The logo was done in a vinyl sticker shop in india. It's actually a modern fusion of a Lotus and of a Hindu god in India called Ganesha.

It was made from this
https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/i...ggV1A&usqp=CAU

I have been searching on what type of clear that i am spraying but neither the can nor the website says what it is made of all it says is 1k Clear gloss. Will try to dig for more info

I have been lightly sanding with 600 every 3 coats and have done 3 more coats of the 1k clear spray. But now I have accidentally sprayed it a bit thicker that the clear coat has developed crackling ina small area. I guess I may need to sand it again and spray more evenly. Damn this needs a lot of practice.

Drashkum

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[fender3x]

I suspected it was Ganesh. Cool that he has been fused with the Lotus. Clear and simple ;-)

I think 600 might be a little too fine a grit. 320-400 is as light as I generally go for scuff sanding. Anything finer and you may be polishing rather than scuffing.

It does take a lot of practice and PATIENCE. You know the old painter's prayer: God give me patience, and give it to me now!

If it has a strong smell of solvent, it probably is, which means the coats should melt into one another. Also, if it does not ball up when you sand, that suggests a quick drying solvent based. Water based finishes tend to take a little longer to dry because water takes longer to evaporate. The exception (as in at least one of my finishes) is when the finish never quite hardens...which seems to be a feature of some solvent based finishes. Fortunately that is not your problem!

[Drashkum]

Hi guys,

After 6 coats of 1k PU Rattlecan clear I have sanded back with 400g. I have two different texture as u see in pictures




1. Somewhat smooth uniformly white smooth kind of texture ( Marked as 1 in picture)

2. Other areas which are with shiny spots ( Marked as 2 in picture)

Does that mean I have level sanded in areas marked as 1 and the areas in 2 are high and low spots and is not yet level?

If so what can I do to level those areas?. Should i keep spraying enough coats so that it becomes thick enough that i can keep sanding aggressively to achieve a level as in 1?

Should i keep using the 400g for this? At what point I should go for finer grits?

Please do post your opinions
Thank you

Drashkum

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[Drashkum]

Everyother day I get into more and more trouble.
Now I have a couple of runs and drips. I shouldn't have used this rattle can which was near empty. It started to spray unevenly sometimes misty and sometimes thick and it spat out at various places. And now I have this big drips and runs. I have left it to dry.

I have to find a way to fix this. Any ideas please?



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