Astracaster First Build FS-1

[Drashkum]

Finally got the guts to do a base stain black on the veneer




I diluted the 3 ml of the Charcoal stain ( alcohol based) with 15 ml (1:5 dilution) water and wiped it of one pass with a rag and then used a rag with thinner to pull out excess stain from the top in slow and circular motion making it less blotchy. And then wiping of with clean rag. I am allowing it to dry.
It obviously has a few spots which has not taken stain well and it looks like the veneer was sanded through in those areas when it came from factory itself. . A couples of glue spots and a central glue line Which needs to be addresses.

How long before I sand it softly with 320/400?

Does this look Ok? Should I have to stain the pickup cavity too?

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[david bodycomb]

Good on you its coming along nicely, do you give it another sand now again i wonder?
Interesting process.

[Simon Barden]

I’d wait a day before the light sanding. That should be more than enough tine for all the solvent to evaporate.

There’s really not a lot you can do about the central glue line now. Once you’ve got the main stain on, that’s the time I’d have a go at trying to do something about it. I’ve often used a coloured Sharpie run along the line to at least get close to the colour of the top. Or mix up some acrylic artists paints to match the colour. It will never be perfect, but it will be far less noticeable.

I can’t see any evidence of factory sand-through of the veneer on the top. Having done it myself I know it would be very noticeable. As the veneer is already smooth before it’s applied, there wouldn’t be any need to sand it. The factory won’t use any more processes than are necessary to get the kit out of the factory door, as they all take time, and time is money (and so less profit).

No need to stain the pickup pockets at all, though I would use a few coats of clear on them.

[Drashkum]

I’d wait a day before the light sanding. That should be more than enough tine for all the solvent to evaporate.

There’s really not a lot you can do about the central glue line now. Once you’ve got the main stain on, that’s the time I’d have a go at trying to do something about it. I’ve often used a coloured Sharpie run along the line to at least get close to the colour of the top. Or mix up some acrylic artists paints to match the colour. It will never be perfect, but it will be far less noticeable.

I can’t see any evidence of factory sand-through of the veneer on the top. Having done it myself I know it would be very noticeable. As the veneer is already smooth before it’s applied, there wouldn’t be any need to sand it. The factory won’t use any more processes than are necessary to get the kit out of the factory door, as they all take time, and time is money (and so less profit).

No need to stain the pickup pockets at all, though I would use a few coats of clear on them.

This is how it looks after wiping down with wet rag... Its taken more black than I would have preferred.

Do u people thing if its good for me to go ahead with colours?

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[Simon Barden]

You'll need to sand it back first, so there's some unstained wood to take up the main colour otherwise it will all just be a darker shade of that colour, the same as if you mixed in some black with the main stain.

[Drashkum]

Finally coloured it... Does this look ok? Or blotchy?

Ofcourse there is a central glue line and small area in veneer which didn't take the stain well.

But overall does this look ok?. Or do I have to sand back and do something?

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[Simon Barden]

It's not perfect, but it's also not terrible either. Some of the slightly less uniform stain areas will be covered up by hardware, like pickup surrounds.

I don't think that particular top was ever going to show really strong flame patterns, though they will probably come through a bit more with clear over the top.

You could have a go at adding more stain around the bridge pickup area and around the base of the neck, to see if it will take a bit more colour. I'd try dabbing it on with cotton wool.

That centre join stripe isn't going to disappear with stain, so you either chose to live with it, or try and colour it over using a permanent marker or some paint of a matching colour, or you paint a centre stripe over the top of it with a contrasting colour.

Some people have used it as an opportunity to paint some racing stripes along the centre line, or you can get them in sticker format e.g. https://www.inlaystickers.com/products/racing-line

[Drashkum]

I spoiled it in the evening. I should have left it at 80% good. As @fender3x would say, trying to Make 80% good to 100% I sanded through. I only have myself to blame for It. Damn.

I shouldn't have touched it in evening after I left it to dry. I am cursing myself now. This has been a good hard lesson for me. I am leaving it to dry and apply sanding sealer tomorrow and going to accept it as it is.



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[Simon Barden]

Don’t apply sanding sealer if the top is stained, it is only for bare wood before sanding.

If that last picture is taken after the sanding incident, then it looks good enough not to worry too much about. I’d be tempted to do something about the centre join-line stripe, but that’s it.

[Drashkum]

Don’t apply sanding sealer if the top is stained, it is only for bare wood before sanding.

If that last picture is taken after the sanding incident, then it looks good enough not to worry too much about. I’d be tempted to do something about the centre join-line stripe, but that’s it.

Yes, @Simon Barden. Last pic is after sanding incident I stopped once I realised I'm going through. Good to know that it still looks ok.

But it's like a musicians curse right?. Musicians can never appreciate their tracks that their listeners adore as they know what mistakes they have done.

Should i not apply 3 coats of sanding sealer over stain to seal the stain and then sand slightly and apply rattle can PU?

Rattle can 1K clear causes stain to blotch without sanding sealer


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