Silvertone bass

[FaustoB]

I bought a Silvertone bass for second hand very cheap (+/- 100$ au) that I would like to use for upgrades and mods.



This bass currently has a fretted fretboard that has been converted to fretless (lined) by someone in the past.
I would like to swap this neck for an unlined fretless, perhaps upgrade the pickups and do some minor cosmetic changes.

The instrument itself as it is not too bad at all, it definitely plays well, it's lightweight, it sounds pretty good with half rounds, but I really don't like the fretless lined fretboard, the headstock and the tuners.

Problem:
I have purchased a PitBull rosewood fretless bass neck. It hasn't arrived yet but I have a PitBull maple fretless neck hanging around and did a quick dry fit test.
It looks like the PitBull neck is slightly wider than the neck pocket on the Silvertone bass, by no more than 1mm probably. I am aware that every neck is slightly different, but I think it's fair to assume that the neck pocket on the Silvertone is slightly smaller than the PitBull necks.

Questions:
When my fretless bass neck arrives, do I make the neck smaller (where the neck join is), or do I widen the neck pocket on the body? or a bit of both?
and what tools to make the neck fit to the body? I have a sander, and a rasp. Would they do the job?
My instinct says that I should make the neck smaller and leave the body as it is but I am not 100% sure.

Here the other mods I have in mind. Other than the neck itself and the pup, the rest is mostly aesthetic:

# swap neck to unlined
# stain the neck with Feast Watson Black
# finish with Feast Watson Gloss clear Varnish (all this is to try to match the existing body look/feel, but I might be wrong)
# stain the fretboard with black Dingotone (I still have some around from another project)

# reposition bridge closer to fretboard to slightly shorten scale to get the "21st fret" (3x full octaves from E to e)
# re-drill side dots to "fret" position

# pickup upgrade (TBC, depends on new neck and how it feels after the swap). Currently considering Tonerider, DiMarzio Model P or Seymour Duncan SPB-3

# black tuners, black bridge, black knobs, black neck plate.

# black strings? too much? which ones? I like half round a lot these days but I'm open to try different strings as long as they don't break the bank.

# custom decal with logo on headstock and neck plate. Decal possibly blue, or purple or dark purple.
# custom pick guard print or decal (TBC).


Any suggestion about how to fit the neck or any other mod idea while I am gradually upgrading this instrument?

[Simon Barden]

As the new neck is unfinished and there are no frets to worry about, I’d make the neck narrower to fit the pocket. I’d probably just use sandpaper stuck to a metal beam - the sort people use for fret levelling - to remove wood from the sides vertically. Once the right width (not too tight as you need to allow for the finish depth), I’d hand sand to restore a curve up to the fingerboard edges.

You’ll probably want to drill out the side dot markers (mid-fret positions) and fill them with something to natch the fingerboard colour. You may or may not want to add dot markers at the fret positions.

If the saddle positions in the photo are correctly intonated for 34” scale strings, then you probably don’t need to move the bridge position as it looks like there’s enough forward travel on them to allow for the difference between a 20 and 21 fret length neck. Measure and see once the new neck can be fitted, I’d avoid doing it before then.

I’d measure the saddle string spacing. If the neck is slightly narrower than normal, then the bridge string spacing may also be narrower. You don't want to just buy a generic P-bass bridge and find the strings are right up by the fretboard sides on the upper ‘frets’.

Rather than stain and varnish the neck, why not just paint it black?

How old is the Dingotone? It doesn’t have a particularly long shelf life (from the reports I’ve read over the years). It’s also not going to add any real protection for the wood if you don’t fit coated strings. Have you thought about a black epoxy coating instead? You’ll need a 12” radius block to sand it smooth.

You could also get a black Tusq nut.

[Rabbit]

# black strings? too much? which ones? I like half round a lot these days but I'm open to try different strings as long as they don't break the bank.

I guess it depends on your bank I guess, but as far as I can tell, there's really only two options that I have found. One is tape wound strings, the tape is generically black. Thicker gauge, fairly easy on the fingers and a characteristic upright bass like boom. I have them on my violin bass The only other black strings I know of is DR Black Beauties. The are coated round wounds. They seem fairly bright to me, I have them on my "Explorer" bass. They also do a red version which looks good on a black body.

[Stuart D]

The other alternative if you're happy with the existing neck, is to take the fretboard off and put a new one on - something like an ebony one. Not a difficult task, they steam off fairly easily and a new fretboard isn't expensive. You don't need to cut fret slots, so it makes it even easier.

CA glue is another possibility for the fretboard, strings do tend to chew up fretless boards a little, so CA glue gives it some protection.

I'd also sand the neck smaller, definitely the easier option. Apart from anything else it gives you the option of still being able to use the neck it came with if you ever needed to.

[Simon Barden]

Rotosound do their Tru Bass 88 nylon coated tapewound bass strings and their Nexus black polymer coated bass strings, which are coated roundwounds.

Whilst you can get ‘black’ CA, it’s quite translucent in my experience, whilst black epoxy is pretty opaque. Gives you a choice of finishes.

[FaustoB]

Wow!
these are all very good suggestions!!! Overwhelmed once again by the amazing knowledge and generosity shared in this forum!
thank you @Simon Barden, @Stuart D and @Rabbit !

NECK
Ok then, the way to go seems to be sanding the neck narrower. Great suggestion Simon about the metal beam with sand paper, I'll do that! I've got a short metal straight edge that it's perfect for the job.
Definitely yes to drilling out the side dots before painting, and definitely yes to add my own. Those dots are the only reference I've got on an unlined fretless, going without any reference would be a very challenging experience.

I didn't think about removing the fretboard! cool idea but I have already purchased the neck and I have a couple of headstock shapes in mind! I'm not a fan of the Silvertone headstock.

NECK and FRETBOARD PAINT / STAIN
the Dingotone I intend to use has been opened 1 year ago... you are probably right Simon, better not to risk. and yes I meant DG for the color, and then I intended to use DG finish etc, but I am very happy to consider alternatives.
Questions:
Can I ask Simon what do you mean by paint the neck black? what type of paint would I use?
and what do you mean by black epoxy coating for the fretboard? do you have a brand in mind or a name of a product that you would recommend?

BRIDGE
All good points about the bridge, yes it was intonated before removing the strings, and Simon you are 100% right I might be able to keep the bridge where it is and still achieve the number of "frets" I need. I will measure the scale length on my PB-4 fretless I finished not long ago.
Good point also about the bridge width and string spacing, will research that before going ahead with the purchase.

NUT
Black Tusq nut? I didn't think of that! For sure this is the way to go! added to the list of mods.

STRINGS
I've heard of tape wound strings, DR Black Beauties, Tru Bass 88 and Nexus black polymer but never tried them. The red DR Neon are a great idea too!! It looks like I have a fair bit of research to do here.
Instinctively I am more incline towards the tape wound or coated at this point to try a different sound because these are types of string I have never tried before. I have tried rounds, half rounds, and flats, although flats sound good and I love them on some fretted basses but definitely not for me on fretless.
I own a fretless with ebony fretboard and round wounds, it sounds amazing but yes the strings are definitely digging in the fretboard. Personally I think it's negligible and the sound it's just too good (and I don't play that bass 8 hours a day everyday). I've started a thread on Talkbass a few years ago with some photos and a poll on this topic, link here, keep in mind that somehow in the pictures the fretboard looks way worse than what it actually looks IRL.
However on rosewood if I go ahead with roundwounds I might have to use CA glue as you said, excellent suggestion.
Or maybe I'll have to use CA glue anyway (or black epoxy) just in case down the track I'll decide to use rounds.

PICK UPS
well, it looks like I've got plenty more to sort out before worrying about this.

Let me know Simon (or anyone in the forum) if you could explain a bit more about the black paint for the neck + black epoxy for the fretboard and if you have any product that you fell like recommending!

[Rabbit]

Tapewouonds would be gentler on the board than coated round wounds. Either way the financial sting for strings is harsher for bass than for the guitar princesses.Not sure about the Nexus strings but the polymer coating of the DR strings wears off eventually.

[Simon Barden]

It was just that you said you would stain the neck black and then varnish it. You mentioned the fretboard separately, so I assumed you wanted to have an all-black finish for the neck. If you just want a black fretboard, with a standard maple back to the neck, then forget all that black paint stuff.

[Simon Barden]

I’ve no specific details or brands on the epoxy. I just know you can get it. Any epoxy or CA will be harder than the rosewood, and if it does wear over time, you can simply sand back a bit and refinish it.

[FaustoB]

Thank you all for the amazing suggestions!
Very useful, will keep researching while waiting for the neck to arrive!