Thanks for the suggestions everyone.
In the end I masked off the filled drill holes and strip sanded to remove the 1st Tru Oil coat. Then diluted Japan Brown to 50% and "painted" the filler with a small brush. This gave a bit of background colour. Then to help blend this to the spalt I used a fine tip brown sharpie to "dot" some grain on. You can see it if you know what to look at on the lower horn pic below. (the 3 redundant bridge holes will be covered by the bridge)
I now have 4 coats of TO on the front along with the neck and fret board below. My plan now:
- Body - remove masking and re mask to protect front when I apply Japan Brown to the rear/sides of the body followed by 4 coats of TO same as the front. Then once that has dried for a few days light sand only at 1200 grit before the next 4 coats of TO front and back.
- Neck and fret board - there are a couple of dusty bits that will need a very light sand especially on the fretboard so light sand with 1200 or higher grit before 4x coats of TO
Questions:
- There are a few spots on the spalt top that are roughter than the rest of the body - is this just the way it is with a spalt top? On this when I angle the body to the light the rougher parts are not as glossy as the rest of the spalt top.
- How long do I need to leave it before a light sand. It feels slightly sticky to the touch on Sunday after 2 coats applied Friday and Saturday?
- Should I be be recoating TO if 24 hours latter it is still sticky to the touch. Not sure its wet just not smooth?
- For the nut slot should I be putting TO in the slot (the nut is removed?
Thanks in advance
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