PSH-1 Build

[vivek_rc]

Yes, that looks fine. The nut slots are too high for a low action, but cut them lower (or sand the bottom of the nut instead) and that height will come right down.

Looks like you'll be able to get a really nice low set-up on it (if that's your preference).

Thanks Simon, I actually ordered a Bone nut with the kit, never swapped out a nut before so will be YouTubeing it on how to replace a nut. Will compare the two and adjust the bone nut height accordingly by sanding the bottom as suggested

Also do you have a suggestion as to how I can mark out my neck alignment while it’s clamped down now so that when I glue it and then clamp down, I have a guide to ensure it’s the same angle. Was thinking of drawing a line either side of the neck along the section where the neck and top of the veneer meet within the pocket area?


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[McCreed]

Also do you have a suggestion as to how I can mark out my neck alignment while it’s clamped down now so that when I glue it and then clamp down, I have a guide to ensure it’s the same angle. Was thinking of drawing a line either side of the neck along the section where the neck and top of the veneer meet within the pocket area?

Personally, I'd just do it all in one go when you're ready to set the neck. At least that's how I did it (only one set neck build fwiw).
My point is, I did it all just before I glued it, rather than marking it and having any significant time pass in between marking and setting. Probably makes no difference, but I didn't trust marks that weren't "fresh" as well as having fresh mental focus.

While the strings were on, I marked it out by first applying painter's tape where my pencil lines would go (a sharp mechanical pencil can scratch a line in the veneer or finish) then drew the lines on the tape with a steel rule. FTR I did have some coats of Tru Oil on the body before I set the neck so there was no risk of lifting any colour when I took off the tape.
Once the alignment was marked correctly, took off the strings, glued up the heel and pocket, set the neck accordingly.

Simon has done heaps more set necks than me, so I'm sure he'll have some solid advice.

[Simon Barden]

Alignment? I just glued them in.

[Simon Barden]

I suppose it's all down to how wobbly the neck is from side to side in its pocket. I've never had any noticeable wobble. I've done rough alignment checks when I first got the kits (though not proper neck angle checks). On my GSM-1, the T-O-M bridge holes were so out that an alignment check wouldn't have worked anyway.

But as McCreed says, tape on the body first and mark that if you are drawing lines.

I'd use a piece of normal string rather than guitar string just to run along the line of the neck when you've just clamped it for gluing. As you've currently got strings on, you could put a bit of tape on each end of the fretboard and mark their current position. If you leave the bridge in place for the moment. Then you can quickly use the string along the neck to double check everything lines up.

I wouldn't leave any strings on when glueing the neck in place.

[vivek_rc]

Thanks Simon, Mcreed for the advice. Still a few steps to go before I glue in the neck, but at least I’ve got an idea how the setup will be, thanks for all the help

[mrpearson]

Hi Vivek
Before gluing your neck I would try and clean your binding. It is major pain as kept on sanding through the neck finish and had to restain a few times to get a clean edge and then the truoil bleed onto it.

My best result was obtained using Tamiya modeling tape 6mm thick as this creates a really nice clean edge with the binding vs masking tape. Before you do your top coat cover your binding with tape and seal your finish then remove the tape as this will avoid bleeding. And paint on your first coat of top coat.


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[vivek_rc]

Hi Vivek
Before gluing your neck I would try and clean your binding. It is major pain as kept on sanding through the neck finish and had to restain a few times to get a clean edge and then the truoil bleed onto it.

My best result was obtained using Tamiya modeling tape 6mm thick as this creates a really nice clean edge with the binding vs masking tape. Before you do your top coat cover your binding with tape and seal your finish then remove the tape as this will avoid bleeding. And paint on your first coat of top coat.


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Hi mrpearson,

Thanks for the advice, I’ve got a few things to do before I can glue in the neck, so the plan is

- Change the nut to the bone nut I ordered
- got to sand down the tops of the extra Shims as well as it is sticking out of the pocket
- check action again
- finish applying a few more layers of shellac on the neck and body
- stain or darken the fret board

I will then scrape the bindings (have ordered a scalpel from eBay) and once done will spray a few layers of Polyurethane in a spray can on the body and neck separately, then will apply wipe on poly to build the layers, I don’t think I need to worry about the bindings at this stage as I’m using a gloss clear poly as a top coat. After this, I will then glue in the neck.

That’s the plan at this stage…

[McCreed]

...and once done will spray a few layers of Polyurethane in a spray can on the body and neck separately, then will apply wipe on poly to build the layers, I don’t think I need to worry about the bindings at this stage as I’m using a gloss clear poly as a top coat. After this, I will then glue in the neck.

When you spray the poly, just be sure mask off the neck pocket and heel where they will mate when the neck is inserted. You want the glue adhering to bare timber on both faces.

[vivek_rc]

When you spray the poly, just be sure mask off the neck pocket and heel where they will mate when the neck is inserted. You want the glue adhering to bare timber on both faces.

Thank Mccreed , Definitely going to tape then up as well as the fret board etc.

while on the topic, I got two shims I’d need to fit in the pocket, my thoughts are to glue them in & clamp down one by one leaving 24 hours between each shim to set.

then glue in the neck.

[mrpearson]

Thank Mccreed , Definitely going to tape then up as well as the fret board etc.

while on the topic, I got two shims I’d need to fit in the pocket, my thoughts are to glue them in & clamp down one by one leaving 24 hours between each shim to set.

then glue in the neck.

That’s what I did. Glued my shim and left clamped for 24 hrs. It was a few more days before I set the neck.


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