I've ordered some truck tyre weights - lead.. just for their weight. Each block is 50g, I figure I'll create an internal barrier to go inside the cavity over the pots, then load line it with just enough weight to balance it out. Hopefully a couple hundred grams in the right spot will be enough to do the job, but I've got a kg worth coming just in case.
I completely stringed this up yesterday with the kit strings. I figured it wouldn't hurt to get a feel for it and see how it behaves.
I added a little relief to the neck as it was a bit buzzy when I started to dial in the action now that it's fully tuned. It's still a little higher than I'd like, but that bridge is bloody chunky and thick. The posts sitting up a couple mm over the body doesn't do much for that problem. I will look at some timber shims and see if I bring the neck up a bit and see if I can get that action down that way.
It's playable enough at its current height, but I think it's capable of being improved, so it's worth trying. It probably wouldn't have been a problem if I was using the kit bridge, but me being me wanting to use the Babicz bridge that is possibly the most ludicrously bulky bridge I've ever seen..
I have the same bridge on my EX-4. I had countersunk the holes for the screw posts before installing the bridge so that it sat flat against the body "full contact". The action was quite high but after adjusting the truss rod and the saddles I actually had to tweak the saddles to increase the action of a couple of strings because they were too low.
I am sure this is a dumb question and that you've already thought of it, but why not just shim it?
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Yeah I reckon if I was gonna do another one using one of these bridges, I'd do that. I did think, about 2 minutes after I'd belted those posts down, that countersinking would have been a good idea. I didn't have anything big enough at the time to do that with anyway, but hindsight... a wonderful thing. I very much doubt I'll get them out without damage, so won't even bother trying. Not sure if I shove some timber over them and try to belt them down will get much more out of it with brute force. Just as easy to work around it I guess.Originally Posted by Rabbit
I did suggest that in the middle, once :P
That'll wound up being the option I suspect.
There was a plate that came with that bridge that I think will fill the gap under it nicely too. The holes aren't big enough. Tempted to rip that bugger off, measure and see if I can find a bit big enough to rip through them. At least that might do something with restoring the "full contact" bit.
EDIT: Maybe not. That's about 1.5mm higher than the gap. Don't care to make that any worse.
Yeh I kinda didn't bother using that plate, I figured the bridge would be high enough without it. I don't know off hand what timber the body of the t-bird kit is, but to remove the posts you could use a long bolt and just keep tightening them once they bottom out. If the timber is hard enough the posts should start to back out.
Interesting idea. It's basswood, so not sure if that is hard enough to cope with that.
I've removed many a post with that method because I keep forgetting about the bloody grounding wire to the bridge without drama. If you're worried about it, there's another method I've used that requires a correctly fitting bolt, a bit of PVC pipe (or the like) that's a little bit bigger than the post hole, a washer between the head of the bolt and the pipe and another washer or two to site between the pipe and the body that's also bigger than the post hole but of course has a smaller inner circle than the pipe. A rubber washer is good for the bottom washer to protect the body. Assemble it all over the post hole and slowly screw the bolt into the post which will ever so slowly and neatly extract the post and it will come out nice and straight. I had to do this when removing the posts from an old Gibson I was restoring as they were really small posts and the first method just wouldn't work.
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