I know it’s not a Gibson, but I have to try

[Simon Barden]

Now the neck’s on, I’d just recheck the neck angle with the bridge height to make sure there are no issues and the bridge will sit within acceptable height adjustment limits. If you need to make adjustments, better to find out now than after you’ve put on all your gloss!

[blinddrew]

Strong agree with Simon's point here ^^^.

[CountryBass]

Sounds like a great tip! Will do that.

[CountryBass]

Hi and Welcome CountryBass,
Good luck with the build. How do you intend to finish your SG copy?

Well, after all that work the stain didn’t hold up to gloss poly soooo.…I resanded the whole bass down to the filler again. Huge job, but will be worth the trouble. Doing a pecan gloss. Looks pretty good so far”

[Simon Barden]

Did you use spray or wipe-on poly? Spray should have been fine, but I can see the solvents in wipe-on poly reactivating the pigment and lifting it out as you rub.

[CountryBass]

Did you use spray or wipe-on poly? Spray should have been fine, but I can see the solvents in wipe-on poly reactivating the pigment and lifting it out as you rub.

Unfortunately I used wipe-on. It lifted the pigment enough to screw it up enough to take a new color change. The pecan I used is gloss poly, so much easier!

[CountryBass]

I have used 400 and 600 grit papers for neck recently and I am happy!
Real smooth finish, fyi, no top coats on the neck for me on either my tele or bass build.
I ensured all pores are closed and wet sanded ... Like the feel

I took your advice to practice. Only I wet-sanded all the way to 1500 grit. Smoooooooth as a baby’s butt.

[CountryBass]

Build is done except for setup! There are some flaws that I will remember on my next build.

[CountryBass]

Now the neck’s on, I’d just recheck the neck angle with the bridge height to make sure there are no issues and the bridge will sit within acceptable height adjustment limits. If you need to make adjustments, better to find out now than after you’ve put on all your gloss!

Well I had to remove the neck because I glued to early and no good angle for the neck and bridge adjustments. What should I do for neck shims? How high do I need to shim? Do I shim level or do I need to make some kind of angle at the joint?

[Simon Barden]

With the bridge at its lowest setting, where does a straight edge placed along the neck hit the bridge relative to the top of the saddles.

A flat shim is easiest to make, but if the strings need to come up 4mm, then you need a shim 4mm thick. There's not a huge amount of gluing area on the neck joint with that bass, so you lose a fair bit of the side gluing area direct to the neck that's providing extra strength.

An angled shim is more efficient, as you have around a 3:1 gain in height at the bridge for the change in height over the neck tenon length, plus and step height in the shim, so a shim 1mm high at one end and 2mm at the other should get to 4mm of extra height at the bridge. Or if you managed to get one end wafer thin, then the other end could be 1.5mm and you should get 4.5 mm height gain.

The two current PHS-1 builds required similar shims. I described one way you can make your own angled shim using a basic jig here.
https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...l=1#post217910