Waterslide Decals

[Hardcoretroubadour]

Alright, I am thinking of doing a logo or script on my headstock, what programs are you currently using to do this? Oh yeah, I am a complete Luddite when it comes to computer stuff, so it needs to be easy to use. Thinking of using water slide decals for the head stock
Cheers
Brendan

[FrankenWashie]

At its rudest, you can use word to print text via a laser jet or inkjet printer with specialty decal paper.
i have used Adobe Illustrator, others have designed stuff and had it professionally printed by folks like Rothko and Frost.
depebd on what you are trying to do and how fancy you want to get.

[pablopepper]

In a pinch, you can use Word or any other word processing program. Check out https://www.dafont.com/ to find a font you like the look of, download the ZIP folder, unzip it (usually available with a right click on the folder) and transfer the .ttf file into the fonts folder of your computer. This will let you type in the font you have just downloaded, then print out your script in a variety of different sizes (on plain paper first) to figure out what size suits your headstock. After that, print out on decal paper and you are on your way.

Some script fonts work a whole lot better than others. If you need help tidying one up, let me know and I can do it for you.

[Hardcoretroubadour]

Cheers Pablopepper, I think that even I can follow those instructions

[lunaticds]

Sorry for the thread bump. I've skimmed this topic but not entirely sure I've found an answer...
I've attempting my first DIY build (TB-4 Bass) just because it seems like fun, and it'll slow down my increasingly expensive GAS.

I'm gonna use Dingotone, including on the headstock. I want to apply a decal using the decal paper linked in the OP.
Would the appropriate time to apply be after the stain coat or the intensifying coat?

Cheers!

[McCreed]

I'm gonna use Dingotone, including on the headstock. I want to apply a decal using the decal paper linked in the OP.
Would the appropriate time to apply be after the stain coat or the intensifying coat?

I've not used any Dingotone products, but generally speaking, whatever you use as your clear coat wants to go under the decal. The timber needs to be sealed before applying a decal, so do a enough light coats of polyurethane, lacquer, Tru Oil etc first.

I don't believe the intensifier is meant to be the final top coat, but an intermediate coat that reacts with the colour coat ie: intensifies it.

After the decal is completely dry (good to let it stand for 24 hours) start building up coats over it to "bury" the edges of the decal.

I hope that helps.

[lunaticds]

Cheers mate. Will keep that in mind when the time comes.

[mrpearson]

I've not used any Dingotone products, but generally speaking, whatever you use as your clear coat wants to go under the decal. The timber needs to be sealed before applying a decal, so do a enough light coats of polyurethane, lacquer, Tru Oil etc first.

I don't believe the intensifier is meant to be the final top coat, but an intermediate coat that reacts with the colour coat ie: intensifies it.

After the decal is completely dry (good to let it stand for 24 hours) start building up coats over it to "bury" the edges of the decal.

I hope that helps.

Looking to use Rothko and frost but they say you cannot use tru oil with their decals. I plan to tru oil body and neck over dingo tone but use a poly spray on the headstock, apply decal then layer up more poly to hide edges. There are a few good you tube videos showing this method.


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[Simon Barden]

You could almost certainly spray a couple of coats of poly on the decal whilst on the sheet, then apply it and Tru Oil over the top.

There’s always a risk of any finish solvent loosening the toner on the decal but more so if you rub it on, where any loosened toner will be moved about and smeared. A couple of light coats of poly should dry quickly (so minimal solvent contact time with the decal) and not dislodge any toner. Leave it a day, cut out the decal, apply onto a dried Tru Oil finish, leave a day to dry and you should be fine applying TruOil over the (now protected) decal.

[m0j0]

You could almost certainly spray a couple of coats of poly on the decal whilst on the sheet, then apply it and Tru Oil over the top.
There’s always a risk of any finish solvent loosening the toner on the decal but more so if you rub it on, where any loosened toner will be moved about and smeared. A couple of light coats of poly should dry quickly (so minimal solvent contact time with the decal) and not dislodge any toner. Leave it a day, cut out the decal, apply onto a dried Tru Oil finish, leave a day to dry and you should be fine applying TruOil over the (now protected) decal.

I had to do this with my last waterslide I applied. The instructions said to give it a thin coat of spray-on poly before application which I completely ignored because "I know better". Well, not long after putting it in the water it started losing ink from the print and was unusable. Fortunately, there were two of the same print. Next attempt got the poly coat before getting soaked and all went smoothly.

Anyway, that was a long way of saying +1 for what Simon says.