Testing for compatibility on offcuts or scrap is always a good idea when using new products.That makes sense, thanks for that. I'll likely try on some scrap wood and see how it works out before taking it to the guitar if I decide to.
FW and Cabot's are used regularly around here. I use the Cabothane (stupid name) poly and have had good results with it.I have some of the Feast Watson Wipe On Satin Poly from the BGS, that should probably be okay for the neck yeah?
Since you already have the FW wipe-on you should be good, but for future reference, I always recommend buying a small tin (250ml) of "regular" oil based poly and thinning it with turps to use as a wipe-on. It's way cheaper than buying the stuff labelled specifically as wipe-on poly. What you pay for is basically pre-thinned poly.
Between a 50/50 to 60/40 poly/turps mixture is a good starting point. You can adjust as desired from there. I use 60/40 with my mini gun. I've never used water based poly, but I know it's not recommended thinning beyond 10% as it's quite thin to start with.
If you're talking about just staining the fretboard, it might be difficult to get a clean line where the two meet on an all maple board and back. I've never tried it so can't say firsthand, but I would think bleed from the fretboard piece to the back carved piece might be hard to control.What do you guys think of Jarrah for a fretboard?
That said, if you can pull it off, it might look pretty cool.