Page 1 of 3 1 2 3 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 21

Thread: New build GR-1SF

  1. #1
    Member GreyFloyd's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    Freo
    Posts
    54

    New build GR-1SF

    Here we go with my 5th Pit Bull kit build. Have built hollow body guitars before (ES335 and LP hollow) so should have less problems than before but who knows? Just watched a video of someone doing a build where they (OK 'he') left the neck attachment until almost complete. Anyone have any experience whether this is a MUST or just more practicable? Cheers.Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20210619_152617.jpg 
Views:	35 
Size:	582.8 KB 
ID:	40856

  2. #2
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Reading, UK
    Posts
    8,601
    It's really a personal working preference and your method of finishing the guitar. if you have the space to work on the guitar with the neck attached, then my preference would normally be to glue the neck on quite early, so that you can then fill any neck join cracks and finish the guitar as a whole. But if you are short of space, (and moving a complete guitar around with a wet finish can be awkward), then do neck and body separately, then glue the neck on and then deal with any neck join gap finish issues.

    I'd leave the guitar to settle for a few days before deciding if there are any neck fit issues that need dealing with.

    As the kit is fully hollow, you should have less overall problems fitting the wiring harness as it can go in via a pickup hole, which is a lot easier than trying to fit it via an F-hole. But the controls are a lot more spread-out than on a 335, so the harness will be a lot larger. Definitely easier to use latex tubing over pots and switches to pull them through the holes than using string or cotton.

    As the wiring runs are quite long, and you can't shield the inside of the body, I'd also be thinking of using braided screen single-core cable rather than single-core PVC insulated wire or vintage push-back wire to minimise noise pick-up.

  3. Liked by: OliSam

  4. #3
    Member GreyFloyd's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    Freo
    Posts
    54
    Thanks Simon, with the 335 and LP hollow, I did in fact use the tubing and went in thru the F-hole; worked well. Have started out separate body and neck for initial coats of Dingotone (Butterscotch). Will choose an opportune time to set the neck. Thanks for the tip re wiring. So far, with 12 kits, I've yet to have problems with no shielding (maybe I'm lucky - or tone deaf!!).

  5. #4
    Member GreyFloyd's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    Freo
    Posts
    54
    Progressing the coatings of Dingotone. Still unsure whether it'll be better to keep body and neck separated until wiring installed. Bit concerned about the lengthy runs between pots. Anyone built a GR-1SF and if so any tips on whether wiring can be easily installed with neck in place?Click image for larger version. 

Name:	coating.jpg 
Views:	23 
Size:	562.1 KB 
ID:	40915

  6. #5
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Reading, UK
    Posts
    8,601
    I've done an ES3, which is very similar. Yes, its quite easy. You just use the pickup holes to get the wiring in (you just have to pass one pickup down and back up through its hole).

  7. #6
    Member jmax's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    Oxford, UK
    Posts
    73
    My very first build was a GR-1SF. I did minimal finishing on it - just True Oil, only three coats on the neck and four on the body, and I actually left the neck setting until last, even after I installed the electronics. I used the plastic tubing method, and it worked very well. I've also built a Pitbull 12 string 335 - ES 12Q, and even though the wire runs in the GR are a lot longer, I found it much easier to fit everything - mainly because of the deeper body and no centre block.

    I've built a few set neck kits, and I've found the two from Pitbull to have very shallow neck angles, and I ended up having to do a lot of work on the bridges to make them playable. I recommend that you temporarily fit the bridge before finishing, clamp the neck and string it with the two E strings to check the action. You may find that you need to shim the neck to get the proper angle.
    Builds:

    GR-1SF
    ES-12Q

  8. #7
    Member GreyFloyd's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    Freo
    Posts
    54
    Thanks jmax, I feel like leaving the neck setting until I do the electronics. I'll take your advice re the neck angle - again I've never had a problem with this on any of the hollows, but there's always a first time. Pretty happy with the Dingtone (a first) and will leave it until next week to buff it up. Cold and wet in Freo just now! Roll on summer!

  9. #8
    Member GreyFloyd's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    Freo
    Posts
    54
    Change of plan - decided to set the neck prior to wiring as I've done with all previous kits (habits eh?). Advised by Mr Dingotone to use brown paper to 'polish' the guitar and ordered his wax, which will be the final coating (a first for me). Also taken Simon's advice and ordered a bunch of braided wires from Pitbull for the electronics. How much more rain can there be!!Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20210713_152604setneck.jpg 
Views:	15 
Size:	593.9 KB 
ID:	41021

  10. #9
    Mentor DarkMark's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Location
    Perth, WA
    Posts
    1,371
    Jurien Bay has had its fair share.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	PNG image.png 
Views:	16 
Size:	425.9 KB 
ID:	41022  

  11. #10
    Member GreyFloyd's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    Freo
    Posts
    54
    Just applied the DT wax coating and hoping that the colour of the body deepens somewhat (with time?? fingers crossed). Didn't use too much white in the mix but it's still paler than I'd hoped. Maybe should have invested in more than one box of DT stains. Braided cables arrived yesterday so I can now start planning the electronics approach. Am assuming I use the outer braid as the earth upon soldering? Read somewhere that the two A500k and two B500k pots should actually be 3 and 1 as there are 3 volume and 1 tone - any further ideas?
    Sun came out today!!!Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20210722_163623.jpg 
Views:	12 
Size:	462.1 KB 
ID:	41080

Page 1 of 3 1 2 3 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •