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Thread: First scratch build

  1. #21
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    That would be great! However it's only a half size garage, since I converted the other half to my recording/music area, so space is at a premium and I have to share it with things like the tumble dryer (on the proviso that the tube goes outside and doesn't rust my tools!).

    I'm trying to convince the kids to move out so I can rearrange the house, however as I'm retiring next year and the wife wants to move it's probably not worth it, so I'll look for somewhere with a large garage. I'd like a decent table saw and a planer/thicknesser of my own, so need some space for that.

  2. #22
    Member dozymuppet's Avatar
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    Kudos on the neck adventure. I've been pretty intimidated by the idea, but it's great to see it being demystified here.

    Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk

  3. #23
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    Nice job on the truss rod channel, it's a task that always seems a bit daunting but as long as you are patient it's far from the most difficult part of a build.

    Forgive me if I missed it but is this going to be a set neck or bolt on? I assume you will round the corners at the body end of the neck?

    Let us know how you go with cutting the fret slots as my preference is to do the slots prior to gluing the fretboard to the neck.

  4. #24
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    Hi

    It's a bolt on neck. I did round the heel end, but after I took the pic and before I glued the fretboard on.

    That's interesting. So you cut the slots, before the fretboard is radiussed? (Not sure that is a word!) Won't that sand out the slots, or are they just as a guide, so you can redo them afterwards? That's the way Fanblade does them (he's a Kiwi so not sure I can mention him on here!) but he glues the fretboard on first, however the neck is not tapered at that point, so he can use a square to get the slots right.

    I was going to radius the fretboard then mark and cut the slots after that? Obviously there is the difficulty of marking the frets on a tapered and curved fretboard. I'll see how I get on.

  5. #25
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    I do a neck in this order but there are multiple approaches and everyone has their own preference.

    Mark up neck blank.
    Truss rod slot.
    Cut out and then flush rout the neck blank.
    Drill tuner holes.
    Cut the fret slots on the fretboard blank.
    Glue fretboard to neck.
    Flush rout fretboard to neck.
    Drill side dot and fret dot holes and glue in dots.
    Carve neck.
    Radius the fretboard.
    Deepen slots if required.
    Insert frets.

    I do it this way simply because it works best for the tools and jigs I currently use.
    Last edited by Woltz; 06-05-2021 at 07:21 PM.

  6. #26
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    Ok that's useful, thank you. Obviously I've deviated from that already so I'll have to live with what I'm doing. In the UK, there is a guy who runs a guitar building company - Crimson guitars, and I'm basically following the way he did a P Bass build. I've no idea if it's a good way or a bad way, but it's the first time for me so I'm hoping to learn from this. I haven't spent much on the raw materials so if it goes pear shaped then all I've lost is time, and I'm not worried about that.

    It's good to get other people's experiences of how they did it and take bits from it - which was mainly why I started the build diary.

  7. #27
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    Ben Crowe knows his stuff so if you can follow his instructions you should end up with a good result.

    Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

  8. #28
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    There are pros and cons to all three ways of fretting a board (cut flat, then radius/radius then cut slots flat/radius then cut constant depth slots), but they are all relatively minor differences. 'Radius then cut constant depth slots' will leave a bit more wood on the board, but it's not a huge amount extra. But the downside is that using a saw with a depth limiting guide attached makes it hard to use a jig to cut the slots straight and square.

    If you can make it work for you, then use that method. Do what you're comfortable with.

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