Sorry, that should have read "the frets in the middle being too low". In any case, I'm concerned that the frets won't be even once I've tightened the strings.
Sorry, that should have read "the frets in the middle being too low". In any case, I'm concerned that the frets won't be even once I've tightened the strings.
I think you may have skipped the part of the manual about the truss rod...Reading the manual it says that I should tape up the fretboard, use texta to mark up each fret and then lightly sand back any high spots.
You need to use the truss rod to flatten the neck. The PBG necks are fitted with a two-way truss rod which allows adjusted in both directions (convex, concave).
You will need a notched straight edge to accurately get the neck flat before levelling the frets. I see if I can find the section and link it here rather typing an entire tutorial.
I'll be back...
OK, second half of page 13, below the headstock shaping stuff
Last edited by McCreed; 27-03-2021 at 06:43 PM.
Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...
Thanks McCreed
I did read that section, but it then says
Don't be too critical on the neck bow just yet, as the string tension will change the curve
once it's all set up.
That's why I was concerned about the effect of the string tension on the curve of the fretboard.
In any case, I'll move ahead with changing the truss rod to get as straight as I can and then steal one of the kids' textas!
Thanks,
Luthnoob
Hi all,
So I've managed to get myself in a bit of a bind and am looking for some urgent help from the excellent members of this forum! My son has his first bass lesson scheduled for tomorrow morning and I'm stuck!
Specifically, I'm stuck with stopping the strings from rattling against the frets near the head of the guitar. I believe the problem is with the truss rod. I've tried tightening it(turning clockwise while looking down the string from the head to the body). It was very still and while I did manage to get it to move, it's not moving any more and I think I might have maxed out the adjustment (or perhaps have a dodgy truss rod mechanism).
If anyone has any ideas I'd really appreciate it. At this stage my only thought is to put a shim under the bottom of the neck to try force the nut-end higher. But I'm sure I shouldn't have to do that.
Thanks for your help! Looks like it could be a LONG night.
That should have said the truss rod was very "stiff", not very "still".
OK. So I'm an idiot. I'm quite sure I read that I should turn the truss rod clockwise to pull the neck away from the strings but I figured that I'd clearly maxed out the truss rod's extensions so I decided to just try it anticlockwise, since I had nothing to lose. And that fixed it.
Now my problem seems to be that the bone nut that I installed is slightly lower than the original plastic one so the strings are rattling against the first fret. I'm going to try to remove the nut and shim that up a bit to see how that works
So that worked. Now that I adjusted the height of the nut, all the strings are clearing the first fret. I also raised the saddle heights slightly and that also reduced buzz.
Now the only remaining buzz happens when I'm playing open strings. And that disappears completely if I hold down the string at the nut. So I think the issue is with the slots in the nut. I don't have files small enough for that job, so I'll have to pop out to the hardware store before my son's lesson tomorrow. Or borrow my wife's nail files ... but I don't think she'd like that
If you've got a small round needle file, it may be quicker to drop some superglue and baking soda/bicarbonate of soda into the slots, to create a quick-setting very hard filler. I mask off the sides of the nut to keep the CA in the slots. Then use the tip of the nut file to deepen the slot depth. Also best to run some P400 or finer paper through the slots to get the bottom smooth again.
Several videos on YouTube about the technique (even Stew Mac use it occasionally on vintage instruments where they don't want to change the nut).
If the action is very low at the moment, then you may find that adding a bit more anti-clockwise turn on the truss rod, and a slight raising of the saddles, might move the strings off the first fret (if they are only just touching).
Hi Simon,
Thanks for your note. I think the issue is that I need to make the slots deeper, rather than shallower. Certainly the top string keeps on popping out of the slot. And when I press the string down into the nut while playing with the other hand, there's zero buzz on the open string.
Now that I've raised the nut height I no longer have the issue with the strings touching the first fret.
Ah, you've got to that stage already. I always use a needle file for deepening bass nut slots. You can get bass nut files, but a needle file does the job just as well (and for a lot less money)
Have you fitted the string tree for the D and G string? (big round button with a screw that fits through the middle) That should hold the two treble strings in place If it's not doing the job, it may need lowering, or you've mounted it too far back on the headstock to be effective.
Like this:
The string break angle over the nut will be too shallow without one.