Ingrid,

Honestly get your design, stain, paint or finish done. Those measurements in your photos all look good to start and all can be set correctly afterwards.

I would suggest sanding....finish....align the neck/bridge/tuning machines for E and G strings. Look at you side gaps on the strings on the neck and lean on the neck a little as you screw the neck on. Check it again.

There is an order to your setup and it really has to be done in that order......

1. Remove your neck.....get a flat edge and adjust the truss rod so the neck is completely flat. Tape up the neck...leaving the frets exposed. Texta on the top of each fret....level the frets from top to bottom...then crown them again into a rounded shape. Then sand, buff and polish the frets.

2. Reattach your neck....pushing it over again as listed above.

3. String it up.....tune it to E,A,D,G.

4. Feeler gauges and Capo needed. Capo on the strings at the point of the crest of the first fret...right on top. Push a finger down at the point where the neck joins the body.....15th or 17th fret normally. Then using a 0.015 inch feeler gage at the fret halfway between the 1st fret and the one where your finger is.....slide it in....normally 8th or 9th fret. The feeler gauge needs to just slide under the string....use the fat E string. Just slides under. If you flattened the neck as above, it normally does not need much adjustment here. If it needs adjustment then use the truss rod key turn clockwise to tighten if the string is too high.....turn anti-clockwise if the string is too low.

5. I use imperial measurements.....sorry...so now we are looking at string height. Remove the capo.....you adjust the string height using the bridge height adjustment screws. Keep each segment of the bridge level not angled. Use a tiny Allen key...normally included with the kit to adjust the strings up and down away from the fretboard. A good starting point is 5/64ths of an inch between the top of the 17th fret and the bottom of each string. You will have to adjust and retune as you make changes....do this in tune and with the bass up on its side how it would be if played.

6. The height of the string at the first fret can heavily effect the note you play in the 1st, 2nd, 3rd frets. You need to get the strings down to about 0.022 inch above the first fret. This involves filing down the string slots. A set of nut files is helpful for this.....but you can just super glue an old section of string of the desired width to a paddle pop stick and use that as a file. Hold the file in such away the the neck side of the nut is high and you push down towards the tuners. Try rolling the files to the left and right a little to open up the fret slots to help with the string not binding.

7. Now we have intonation. The strings tuned again to EADG. Pluck the unfretted open E string....ensure it is in tune.....and then pluck the same string fretted at the 12th fret. If the note at the 12th fret is Sharper then the string length from the 12th fret to the bridge is too short and needs to be longer. So you then use, in most cases, a Phillips screwdriver and move the bridge saddle backwards by turning the screw clockwise. If the note is flat the string is too long and we turn the screw anti-clockwise. You will have to retune the open string as well as the fretted string as you go.

Intonation done correctly will give you accurate notes in the octave below the 12th fret and in the octave above the 12th fret by making sure the two sections of the string are the same length.

Then you are done.