Quote Originally Posted by MrEddy View Post
Thanks, I'll be patient for a few days.

One quick question. My original plan was to stain this (using dingotone), but I've been reading that staining Alder can result in a blotchy or uneven finish if you don't prep it properly. Any recommendation on what I should be using for that step?
Get your sanding done first mate.

Me:-

Start with 80 grit, then 120 grit, then 180 grit.....now use a mist or atomised water...or alcohol and look for marks and scratches...sand them out with the 180. Retest and retest until all the swirls, scratches and marks are gone.

Regardless of body timber I use a filler....my choice is timber mate...currently I use the cedar/blackwood colour the most. The consistency is a must here....reduce the amount of water hitting the body. This will help stop veneers lifting, holes fluffing and body segments from splitting from each other along glue lines.

I try for a custard like consistency. I put a couple teaspoons of timber mate in a small glass bowl....dribble water in and mix it around...adding a small amount of water as I go.

I then apply across the body, with a 25mm or so synthetic paint brush, then up the body and then hang overnight. I then sand at 240 grit until the body is super smooth.

Now...the bit before the stain. The end grain and the high and low sections of front and back grain are like straws and will soak up the stain you apply. So...to help you need to add something at this stage that can even out the absorption rates across the body, otherwise you will get bare unstained bits and deep dark bits.

I mix my own shellac using shellac flakes and methylated spirits. I mix it by weight/volume...e.g. 250gm flakes to 250ml metho.

I then use a section of cotton T shirt material and wipe on three coats of the shellac...allowing about 30 mins between coats.

I then let the body dry overnight. The next day it will have a few furry bits on it....and I very very lightly knock these down with either 240 grit or 320 grit.

That is it for sanding on the body without stain/sealer/finish.

Dingo Tone is heavily effected by humidity...do not rush it. If you do it too quick it will bubble or form like little lumps and not dry. Dingo tone does not like penetrating fine sanded bodies......I would suggest not going past 240grit if you are going to use Dingo tone.

I use a lot of the alcohol based stains called proof tint from Feast Watson. The final sealer/clear coat is up to you and the desired feel you want.

There are oils, waxes, tru oil, polyurethane and paint.

Read some threads in the finishing section.....there are some smart people here. Enjoy the Tele.