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Thread: 1st Biuld - HB-4S violin bass

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  1. #1
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    I don't know anything about the PCB in the HB-4 (assuming it is a PCB as the kit photos don't show the underside of the switch panel) but if you can test it out with a multimeter or continuity buzzer, and they are connected, then no, no reason why not. Just make sure that the path isn't reliant on a switch being in a certain position.

    A photo of the PCB would help to double check the path if you haven't got a multimeter.

    Whilst the PBG wiring diagram shows long lengths of the shield wire going to the common ground point, it's best if you can use either heatshrink insulation, some outer insulation wire covering or even insulation tape to cover long shield wires, to make sure that they don't accidentally touch a signal connection when installed and floating about inside the guitar, and so cause sound loss.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simon Barden View Post
    I don't know anything about the PCB in the HB-4 (assuming it is a PCB as the kit photos don't show the underside of the switch panel) but if you can test it out with a multimeter or continuity buzzer, and they are connected, then no, no reason why not.

    Whilst the PBG wiring diagram shows long lengths of the shield wire going to the common ground point, it's best if you can use either heatshrink insulation, some outer insulation wire covering or even insulation tape to cover long shield wires, to make sure that they don't accidentally touch a signal connection when installed and floating about inside the guitar, and so cause sound loss.
    The track is continuous with the earth for the jack (the designated solder point). It's also connected to the third legs of the volume control pots. The unused pads are in the right place such that there is no need to use heat shrink tube. If this was an electronics kit , those pads would be correct solder point for the pickup earths.

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