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Thread: TL12-F build no 4.

  1. #11
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    Coming along nicely.

    Just make sure any wax you use doesn't have any silicone in it. That makes it impossible to do any simple finish repairs without stripping everything back.

  2. #12
    Member stansby40's Avatar
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    Wax

    Quote Originally Posted by Simon Barden View Post
    Coming along nicely.

    Just make sure any wax you use doesn't have any silicone in it. That makes it impossible to do any simple finish repairs without stripping everything back.
    Yep Gilly Stephensons cabinet makers wax. A mixture of beeswax and carnuba wax.
    Build 1 AGM-1
    Build 2 TLA-1
    Build 3 ES-3
    Build 4 TL-12F
    Build 5 ST-1

  3. #13

  4. #14
    Member stansby40's Avatar
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    Wax on wax off

    the wax has been put on and buffed to a nice satin sheen. Even the back has come out well even though it is 4 pieces of relatively unmatched basswood. The neck is OK but I am not sure how danish oil will go with hands rubbing up and down the neck as you play the guitar. I will put a few coats of wipe on poly to protect it. I also need some poly to cover the decal when I put it on. You cant see in the photos but the grain both front and back have a definite 3D look when you move the guitar.
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    Build 1 AGM-1
    Build 2 TLA-1
    Build 3 ES-3
    Build 4 TL-12F
    Build 5 ST-1

  5. Liked by: dozymuppet

  6. #15
    Member stansby40's Avatar
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    Almost there

    Bridge and Humbucking pickup installed. 250k push pull pot and electrics done. Split to the slug coil on the tonerider AC2. Standard kit bridge pickup. Neck now given a few coats of wipe on poly to protect it and the decal. Had a bit of trouble finding where to put the string tensioner but seems Ok where it is (you can see the screw holes for it on the headstock). Ordered a new set of ernie ball strings as broke the octave G string (a pretty common occurrence it seems). The nut that came with the kit was bone even though I upgraded to a bone nut. I now have a spare. The existing nut needed quite a bit of sanding to achieve a reasonable action. At least it was easy to get out, a few gentle taps with a piece of wood and a rubber mallet. It certainly did jingle jangle and take you back to the sixties.Look forward to getting the final setup done.
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    Build 1 AGM-1
    Build 2 TLA-1
    Build 3 ES-3
    Build 4 TL-12F
    Build 5 ST-1

  7. #16
    Lookin' good!
    #001 (LP-1S) [finished - co-runner up Nov 2018 GOTM]
    #002 (WL-1)
    #003 (MPL Megacaster - semi scratch build) [finished]
    #004 (ST-1 JR - Arachnoid Superhero build) [finished]
    #005 (LP jr)
    #006 (TL-1A)

    Junk shop acoustic refurbs (various)
    'The TGS Special'

  8. #17
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    Looking good.
    I am still tinkering with my tele 12 but happy so far.
    Interested to see how the humbucker goes in the neck.
    The high G can be a problem. Tune it up very slowly. I had to buy some spare stings just for that one.

  9. #18
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    On the bridge saddles, the smaller, moveable saddle has two holes its fixing screw can use. I think it comes fitted in the rear hole as standard, but it will need moving to the forward hole if you are going with the normal' octave string on the bass side' arrangement. The octave string will be intonated with its saddle further forward than standard (thicker) string saddle.

    With the rear hole being used for the fixing screw, the smaller saddle can be moved backwards from level the main saddle position, but not forwards. With the forward hole being used for the fixing screw, the smaller saddle can be moved forwards from level with the main saddle position, but not backwards.

    There are two saddle fixing holes present so that the same bridge can be used for both right-handed and left handed applications (or if you want the octave string to be on the treble side of the pair, like Rickenbacker - though you'll need a new nut cut specifically to do this).

  10. #19
    Member stansby40's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simon Barden View Post
    On the bridge saddles, the smaller, moveable saddle has two holes its fixing screw can use. I think it comes fitted in the rear hole as standard, but it will need moving to the forward hole if you are going with the normal' octave string on the bass side' arrangement. The octave string will be intonated with its saddle further forward than standard (thicker) string saddle.

    With the rear hole being used for the fixing screw, the smaller saddle can be moved backwards from level the main saddle position, but not forwards. With the forward hole being used for the fixing screw, the smaller saddle can be moved forwards from level with the main saddle position, but not backwards.

    There are two saddle fixing holes present so that the same bridge can be used for both right-handed and left handed applications (or if you want the octave string to be on the treble side of the pair, like Rickenbacker - though you'll need a new nut cut specifically to do this).

    I just checked the bridge and you are right there are two holes but unfortunately the front hole is not threaded so I cant use it. I suppose I could tap it if I had the right equipment.
    Build 1 AGM-1
    Build 2 TLA-1
    Build 3 ES-3
    Build 4 TL-12F
    Build 5 ST-1

  11. #20
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    It should be. It's a copy of a Gotoh bridge and that has both holes tapped. Looks like there are problems with these bridges as there was another one that had the small saddles far too low.

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