Page 9 of 13 FirstFirst ... 7 8 9 10 11 ... LastLast
Results 81 to 90 of 129

Thread: DMS-1 - mustang/duo-sonic short scale

  1. #81
    Overlord of Music Sonic Mountain's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    Toowoomba, Qld.
    Posts
    3,261
    Oh man, take the scratch plate off!

    Limit the potential damage as you go

    Looks like you've got away with it, but you should have started with a smaller bit and worked your way up. All a learning experience and no harm no foul.

    Just take it slow man, I am the worst for rushing. I can promise it never pays off.
    Build 1 - Shoegazer MK1 JMA-1
    Build 2 - The Relliecaster TL-1
    Build 3 - The Black Cherry SG AG-1
    Build 4 - The Sonicaster TL-1ish
    Build 5 - The Steampunker Bass YB-4
    Build 6 - The Howling Gowing ST-1

    "What I lack in talent I make up for with enthusiasm"

  2. #82
    Quote Originally Posted by Sonic Mountain View Post
    Oh man, take the scratch plate off!

    Limit the potential damage as you go
    Well if it does get wrecked I know where a like-for-like replacement resides.

    cheers, Mark.

  3. #83
    Mentor OliSam's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    sydney
    Posts
    640
    Talk about dodgy home fixes.
    But
    Ive made it without destroying the whole kit.
    It is together. Put dingo’s fretboard wax on the neck and it is looking good. The fake rosewood is actually dense and quite tight and took the wax well.

    The neck has a slight flatness on the back from my sanding. Not really noticeable but i can feel it.

    Stuck on a nice neat bone nut that miraculously didnt need adjusting!!! It is just right.


    Truss rod question. I think it is a one way truss rod but if i loosen it all the way “turning left” till it is tight can i make the neck bow upwards? Dont want to break it......but suspect the the looser string tension isnt forcing the neck up like with my other builds.

    Snapped the high e string on tightening - it was a kit one so cant expect much.
    Put on a spare B string that i had.


    tested and it makes all the right sounds.

    It works. Phew!

    Ill muck around with it as is for a week or so and when i put the earnie balls on ill also put a decal on the headstock and do a little tidy up.

    Photos to follow.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  4. #84
    Mentor OliSam's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    sydney
    Posts
    640
    Quote Originally Posted by Sonic Mountain View Post
    Oh man, take the scratch plate off!

    Limit the potential damage as you go

    Looks like you've got away with it, but you should have started with a smaller bit and worked your way up. All a learning experience and no harm no foul.

    Just take it slow man, I am the worst for rushing. I can promise it never pays off.
    Thanks Sonic. Smaller bit and worked up?? What a totally smart thing to do. Doh!
    This build is going faster than previous builds for two reasons.
    1. Im not working - so have plenty of time on my hands.
    2. House is being sold and we have to “declutter” for viewings. When your workbench is the kitchen table and lounge room couch it isnt a good look.
    So im going to pack all of my guitar stuff and just leave this guitar out for play for a month or two.
    Hooray for guitars.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  5. #85
    Mentor OliSam's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    sydney
    Posts
    640
    Quote Originally Posted by king casey View Post
    Well if it does get wrecked I know where a like-for-like replacement resides.

    cheers, Mark.
    Just saw your aluminium scratch plate thingy.
    Thats a really good idea!! Im going to try that down the road on this build.
    How do you cut and smooth the edges?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  6. #86
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Reading, UK
    Posts
    10,547
    If it is single action, then loosening it (turning left) will put as much concave bow in the neck as it has naturally under string tension, but won't add any more. But on a double-action truss rod there is a loose/dead patch when everything goes slack and then it starts to bite again and will then start add more concave curve to the neck. If you loosen it so much that the adjustment nut comes off without that second 'bite', then it's single action and you just re-thread the nut on the rod and tighten it until it just bites, so it's not loose and rattly.

  7. #87
    Mentor OliSam's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    sydney
    Posts
    640
    Quote Originally Posted by Simon Barden View Post
    If it is single action, then loosening it (turning left) will put as much concave bow in the neck as it has naturally under string tension, but won't add any more. But on a double-action truss rod there is a loose/dead patch when everything goes slack and then it starts to bite again and will then start add more concave curve to the neck. If you loosen it so much that the adjustment nut comes off without that second 'bite', then it's single action and you just re-thread the nut on the rod and tighten it until it just bites, so it's not loose and rattly.
    Thanks Simon!!!!
    I dodnt know that. I thought when it got loose then that was it.
    I did loosen a bit more it and then it bit again.
    Now there is a little bit of concave in the neck. String buzz is gone. Action is medium-ish.
    Much better. Thanks mate.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  8. #88

  9. #89

  10. #90
    Mentor OliSam's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    sydney
    Posts
    640
    And the area of near disaster....



    I had to cut down the E and A saddles because to intonate they pressed against the strings.
    Better now.



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Page 9 of 13 FirstFirst ... 7 8 9 10 11 ... LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •