TL-1L First build

[Joe Garfield]

Edit: sorry I commented before seeing the later pictures.

Looking good!

[McCreed]

You're far more likely to get wonky holes using a forstner bit if you aren't drilling strait into the wood.

My experience has been the complete opposite. I get a neater result with a forstner.
Just goes to show the ol' "different strokes for different folks" philosophy is applicable here.

I do have a drill press that has just enough throat depth for strat or tele body though.

[king casey]

My experience has been the complete opposite. I get a neater result with a forstner.
Just goes to show the ol' "different strokes for different folks" philosophy is applicable here.

I do have a drill press that has just enough throat depth for strat or tele body though.

I think Simon is referring to using a forstner bit to widen an already existing hole rather than using the pointed part of a forstner bit to start it.

[Twodogies]

Hey guys

Tried different methods to drill a straight hole without a drill press.

About 4 pieces of thin mdf stuck together with individual holes drilled in each, aligned each hole then stuck together.

2 pieces of 50 mm wide timber stuck together with a slight over hang on one to form a straight edge then drilled down along right angle.

A woodworking shop had a drill jig guide on special for $43

Went the usual method. 2 outside holes straight through then other 4 halfway. Flipped guitar over inserted 3mm drill bits into outside holes and drilled other 4 straight through to ensure smooth internal slot.

Best result was the jig. See what you think

This was using a 3mm brad point bit.



Ferrules were 9.5 mm wide and of course dont make a 9mm forsther bit so went a 8mm forstner bit then a 9mm standard drill.



The final result. ( not inserted as yet )



Too late now anyway lol.

[Twodogies]

Edit: sorry I commented before seeing the later pictures.

Looking good!

Thanks Joe

[McCreed]

I think Simon is referring to using a forstner bit to widen an already existing hole rather than using the pointed part of a forstner bit to start it.

Ahhhh, thanks Mark. That would make sense.

Twodogs, those look pretty dang close to me! You'll likely be the only one that might notice it when you're done.

btw, I've done worse!

[Twodogies]

Thanks McCreed.
Very nervous drilling those holes lol.

[Twodogies]

Good morning. Hope everyone had a nice weekend.

Question time. Need advice please.

Just about ready to stain and was thinking a light stain like vintage amber or butterscotch but worried about the darker centre board.




I think I only have the following options.

1. Use a filler to try to even out colour across the whole body.
2. Try a primer before staining.
3. Have to use a darker stain.
4. Someone has the correct method.

Thanks for all your help

[Simon Barden]

Very hard to do much about it. On the front of the body, you are only going to see the bit behind the bridge, as most will be covered by the scratchplate. But the back will be more visible (though obviously not seen much when playing). That centre section has a definite grain pattern as well, so itself has lighter and darker areas.

I have the same problem on a Gordon Smith Strat I'm refinishing for a friend, and that was an AUD$800 guitar when new, and very badly finished indeed. But that was, and will be again, a sunburst, which reduces the impact of the darker central section.

You could try two stains, a light amber for the centre piece and a darker amber for the lighter sides. It won't work perfectly, but it could reduce the contrast between the two colours to a less noticeable level. You'd need to mask off the areas when staining, but you still might get some bleed between the two stains. Or you just accept it for what it is, and live with the mismatch.

If the darker section was more central, you could almost make a feature of it. You could even consider painting a solid dark stripe down the middle of the guitar, and have the wings amber. Or do a solid butterscotch paint job.

The more expensive GTL models are the best ones to get for doing a straight amber/butterscotch or butterscotch blonde finish on. The basswood bodies TLs always have more variance. Basswood can be quite figured, but it is more often than not very plain, of mixed hue, and best suited for solid colour finishes.

[Twodogies]

Thanks for your advice Simon. Much appreciated.

I was planning on a copy of an iconic guitar but that's cool need to adapt to problems as they arise.

The guitar I'm planning originally started out a black tele but was eventually sanded down to natural finish.

So I have two options.. either go black or come up with own colour. Thinking maybe tobacco brown base with layers of yellow, orange, cherry red like a prs tiger eye.

The dark tobacco brown base might hide the centre piece.