A pleasure mate. We are all here to help. I found that if I do the diluted black stain first it helps to find any glue spots (which can be removed with Goof Off), then after I remove the glue, I can sand and redo the black to even the coat before I do the colour stain. Saves time and colour matching is better.
Remember: There is never a dumb question.
The hot days this weekend have helped lay down some colour nearly happy with where its at. Have a question that''s been in the back of my head though can too much colour sit on the surface and look great only to smear when applying a finish ? I'd like to use a finishing oil over the die colour rather than a lacquer.
Some people have found this to be the case. But I think it depends which combination of stain and top coat you use. If the oil acts as a thinner for the colour then it could well draw the stain out and smear it. Sometimes its best to try it out on scrap wood first.
Current:
GTH-1
Completed:
AST-1FB
First Act ME276 (resurrected curb-side find)
ES-5V
Scratchie lapsteel
Custom ST-1 12 String
JBA-4
TL-1TB
Scratch Lapsteel
Meinl DIY Cajon
Cigar Box lap steel
Wishing:
Baritone
Open D/Standard Double 6 twin neck
I give it plenty of time to dry then give it a light wipe with a slightly damp rag. I've found that there is some residue that comes off with the first coat of oil but not enough to affect the final colour.
If you are doing a blue colour, DO NOT use Tru Oil!!! It will yellow over time and turn your lovely blue to a crappy green. Happened with my Tele. Use an acrylic clear coat.
Thanks for the feedback Fretworn I've used water based stain not oil or spirit, would that make it neutral to thinning after the water has evaporated ? Will experiment, have a few test pieces to wok on.CheersOriginally Posted by Fretworn
Thanks ILRGuitars drying between coats makes sense ,and no its not Blue so safe with that. Is the green appearance because the oil has amber tint to it ,the yellow mixing with blue and it turn going green as the oil yellows more in time or just a tru oil thing ? If so are there other oils that can spoil a blue finish over the long term?
From reading this forum and searching the web using a oil finish seems to be my best bet at this stage to possibly achieve a good finish. I've very little spray gun experience or even equipment at this point ,but something to work toward for sure. My concern was that the oil might lift some colour out of or off the grain and give blotchy appearance while rubbing the oil into the wood. The first coat dried would help seal it in then ? I've gone for a burst which took a number of colour applications to get somewhere in the ball park. So would starting on the lightest coloured area and working out towards the darker edges and changing the cloth, be the approach ?
Apologies for all the questions, think I'd better just get out and put the scrap to the test ?
Cheers
I think you just answered your own questions. Using a scrap piece will help you test the stain and your own technique. From memory, on the ES, I think I started from the inside to the outer edges. That also would help prevent runs down the side.
A little residual colour will always come off on the first coat but I've had nothing to worry about. Just make sure your coats are even before you start to oil. A thicker first coat won't hurt either as it will soak in more than following coats. The trick to colour and oil coats is getting them even.
Despite what the bottle says, Tru Oil goes amber over time. So you are right, blue and yellow equals green. I haven't use other oil so I'm not sure.
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote