GS-1sf 1st build - Cocoa

[Simon Barden]

2000 won't make it shiny, its the polishing compounds after that that will give it the shine. But if the finish is very hard, then you may have to go to a finer grit than 2000 to make the final polishing easier. Also, if the finish isn't properly cured, then the finish won't take a full shine. You also need to be careful of rubbing too hard for too long as it's easy for friction to build up a lot of heat, which softens the finish and you won't get a shine.

I'd say that P800 is too fine to get rid of bumps quickly and that I'd have used P240 until the finish was flat, then gone up the grades from that.

If the finish is really hard, then it may be worth getting and using a set of Micromesh pads or sheets before using a polishing compound. If you've gone up to P2000 or even P2500, then 3200 grade Micromesh should be your next step. This can be used wet. Carry on with the Micromesh up to 12000. You should see the finish start to shine at 8000, certainly it will be semi-gloss at 12000, which should make the polishing compound easier to use. Micromesh recommend sanding each grade as right angles to the previous one for best results.

[BuffaloGhost]

2000 won't make it shiny, its the polishing compounds after that that will give it the shine. But if the finish is very hard, then you may have to go to a finer grit than 2000 to make the final polishing easier. Also, if the finish isn't properly cured, then the finish won't take a full shine. You also need to be careful of rubbing too hard for too long as it's easy for friction to build up a lot of heat, which softens the finish and you won't get a shine.

I'd say that P800 is too fine to get rid of bumps quickly and that I'd have used P240 until the finish was flat, then gone up the grades from that.

If the finish is really hard, then it may be worth getting and using a set of Micromesh pads or sheets before using a polishing compound. If you've gone up to P2000 or even P2500, then 3200 grade Micromesh should be your next step. This can be used wet. Carry on with the Micromesh up to 12000. You should see the finish start to shine at 8000, certainly it will be semi-gloss at 12000, which should make the polishing compound easier to use. Micromesh recommend sanding each grade as right angles to the previous one for best results.

Eek. Right!! Keep going then I guess!!! Thanks for all that.


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[BuffaloGhost]

Let the soldering commence!


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[Simon Barden]

I'd say that ground connection on the back of the main tone pot looks rather 'blobby' and may cause problems later. If the solder doesn't flow away smoothly over the top of the pot, rather than bunch itself up on top, then the joint wasn't hot enough to melt the solder properly.

[BuffaloGhost]

I'd say that ground connection on the back of the main tone pot looks rather 'blobby' and may cause problems later. If the solder doesn't flow away smoothly over the top of the pot, rather than bunch itself up on top, then the joint wasn't hot enough to melt the solder properly.

Thanks for the tip. I’ll get the iron hotter and smooth it about. Especially when it comes to the bridge vol which seems to have EVERYTHING grounding to it.


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[BuffaloGhost]

Thanks for the tip. I’ll get the iron hotter and smooth it about. Especially when it comes to the bridge vol which seems to have EVERYTHING grounding to it.


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any better? I managed to get it really flat and smoothed out on the other pots



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[Simon Barden]

It looks better, though there's still a slightly suspect bit in the middle. You don't have to attach everything to the same blob. I normally spread my connections out round the edge if I can.

I notice you've got two capacitors in series (this halves the capacitor value). Obviously by design, but it wont take much for the middle connection to touch the pot casing and ground itself so you revert to the full single capacitor value. A bit of heat shrink tubing over the two soldered legs will prevent that happening, otherwise some insulating tape will work (though it tends to fall off over time but is better than nothing).

[BuffaloGhost]

Thanks. I did spread it about a bit more on the other capacitors. Might just re do this one. I’ve had to join some wires together on my pickups as the wires weren’t long enough too so I’ve got some heat shrinking to do on those.

I did think this about the capacitors so made sure they were also bent away from the pot but I’ll heatshrink those too

Thanks again


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[Richy17]

About your metal flake - Generally when you paint something with metal flake you need to do at least 2 sessions of clearcoat. The last thing I flaked I cleared it about 6 times but it was very coarse flake. I usually wait a couple days in between clear sessions to allow it to fully shrink, otherwise it can sometimes defeat the purpose of adding extra clear sessions. Make sure you sand it as flat as possible between sessions and it will come out like glass 👍🏻

[BuffaloGhost]

Thanks. This is what I’d done before when I’ve done flake but I was very Harvey with a clearcoat on this one and I’d never really gone the entire polishing route. Time will tell but it’s sooo flat now I think another clearcoat would sort this out but I was wondering if it could be polished out. Which it can. Just time and patience


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