I personally prefer inlay over decals. Looks like MOP of some thickness? Will stand out nicely against a black background. Does this mean it will be black paint? I’m yet to figure out how to remove stain from on top of an inlay without making a mess of the headstock, and then clear coats taking up stain and going back over the inlay.
Headstock will be black, the overall scheme will be a burst similar to your ES 1. I need to make the edges da rk to hide the whoopsie that happened with the battery box rout.
The signature/logo will be a decal, just need to do some AI work to get it to look right for the guitar, my standard Hex logo won’t look right on this build.
FrankenLab:
Turning tone wood into expensive sawdust since 2016!
The actual line is 1/16” thick and the same wide.i went as thick as I could as there is likely to be some further scraping and sanding of that feature later on.Originally Posted by DarkMark
The whole thing is going to get a coat of sanding sealer first, then a base colour for the burst in paint/ a clear then the black edges then more clear.
Unless I completely arse it up. Then it will be black.
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FrankenLab:
Turning tone wood into expensive sawdust since 2016!
It's difficult to do with stain, and stain take-up will be dependent on the material used. It's a lot easier with paint, as long as the inlay is slightly proud of the top, as you just paint over it all, then sand it down flush, so that you sand off the paint over the inlay so it shows through again.
I've just re-stained the fretboard of a 70's Hondo II and that had celluloid block markers on it. I used a strong black, and that certainly stuck to the celluloid. In this instance, sanding wouldn't work well as I'd be taking off the surface layer of wood that's stained and I'd be back where I was. Rubbing with some Brasso helped a bit, but was hard work. So I used a Dremel with the buffing disk attached, using Brasso, with the Dremel on a slow setting, and that worked at wearing away the stain (plus some use of a scalpel blade for scraping in the dips). You need to be careful with celluloid as it's easy to soften it with heat from friction (and I did add some small ridges in it due to that), but proper MOP or Abalone etc. should be sturdier.
But it is a lot easier to use paint. rather than stain, if you are using inlay.
If you do use stain, then try and get as much free stain off the board first before using TruOil. Lemon oil will both nourish the wood and help get excess stain off. Then polish the inlay as much as possible (Micromesh and a buffing compound) so that it's nice and shiny and less liable to take up stain.
Then you could scrape the edges of the inlay with a sharp blade to remove any stained TruOil on the inlay if it did spread a bit. By the time you've got a couple of coats of TruOil on, then you shouldn't get any more smearing, and then you can just build up the layers and fill in the slight indentation around the edge of the inlay where you've scraped the TruOil off.
Last edited by Simon Barden; 16-12-2018 at 06:14 AM.
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