Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 1 2 3 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 26

Thread: My first build (IB-1F)

  1. #11
    So, decided to take the hard way, started to remove the binding by applying heat and a knife, only problem is dat it keeps chipping after 1-2 CM. This is going to take a while i'm afraid. On the positive side, the new binding i've ordered will take about 3 weeks till it arrives, so no need to hurry this.

    Thx for the help guys!

  2. #12
    GAStronomist FrankenWashie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Glebe, NSW
    Posts
    5,666
    Quote Originally Posted by Mathijsrie View Post
    So, decided to take the hard way, started to remove the binding by applying heat and a knife, only problem is dat it keeps chipping after 1-2 CM. This is going to take a while i'm afraid. On the positive side, the new binding i've ordered will take about 3 weeks till it arrives, so no need to hurry this.

    Thx for the help guys!
    Slow and steady mate, that’s the way.
    FrankenLab
    Hand crafting guitars, because Death Rays are expensive.


  3. #13
    Overlord of Music Andy40's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Posts
    3,913
    Nice one FW!
    Build #1 - ST-1 - Completed
    Build #2 - LP-1SS - Completed
    Build #3 - TLA-1R - Completed
    Build #4 - SGD-612 - Completed
    Build #5 - ES-1G - Completed
    Build #6 - STA-1HT | Completed
    Build #7 - ST1JR - Completed
    Current Build #8 - JBA-4
    Build #9 - Semi-scratch build Tele x 2 - Completed
    Current Build #10 - PRS-1H
    Current Build #11 - AGJR-1 - Completed
    Current Build #12 - ATL-1SB
    Current Build #13 - GST-1
    Current Build #14 - FBM-1

  4. #14
    One day later and the binding is completely gone, the insides of the horns took me almost the same, if not more time to do than the rest of the body.

    At this moment the next hurdle arrises, how to i deepen the binding slots. Went to a wood working shop but they couldn't help me, thought long and hard and finally decided that the easiest solution normally is the best solution, so i glued a piece of 180 grit sandpaper to an old credit card that could form with the contours of the body, and it worked great!

    Bering the impatient person i am, i really wanted to see what it the top was going to look like, so i diluted the black stain i had ordered, and started applying it to the top, and wiping it down with water directly afterwards so i would not have to sand that much. After the stain, some glue spots started showing (picture was taken after first diluted stain and light overal sanding), sanding some more started to hide them (after the picture was taken), but still some are visible, would a thick layer of black stain hide them or should i sand more you guys think?

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Naamloos-1.jpg 
Views:	280 
Size:	710.1 KB 
ID:	29123

  5. #15
    GAStronomist wazkelly's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Caloundra West, Sunshine Coast Qld
    Posts
    6,631
    Looks like a job for goof off.

    Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk
    # 1 - EX-5 https://goo.gl/fQJMqh
    # 2 - EX-1 https://goo.gl/KSY9W9
    # 3 - Non PBG Tele https://goo.gl/W14G5g
    # 4 - Non PBG J Bass https://goo.gl/FbBaFy
    # 5 - TL-1AR GOTM Aug 2017 https://goo.gl/sUh14s
    # 6 - MMB-4 Runner-up GOTM Oct 2018https://goo.gl/gvrPkp
    # 7 - ES-1 Runner-up GOTM Aug 2018https://goo.gl/T9BEY8

  6. #16
    Mentor Andyxlh's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    1,206
    #2 for goof off....... That veneer is very thin

  7. #17
    Some days, and lots of elbo grease later, it's time for another update.

    Goof Off did the job on most of the parts so thanks for the advice!

    It took me quite some time to deepen the binding slots, but its finally done.
    Now the waiting game has begun. The new binding will take another 2-4 weeks till it arrives, so i've applied the first coat of stain and gave it a light sanding and WOW, The flame really pops on this veneer!!!

    next posts coming when the binding arrives!
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Naamloos-2.jpg 
Views:	265 
Size:	768.0 KB 
ID:	29182

  8. #18
    GAStronomist FrankenWashie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Glebe, NSW
    Posts
    5,666
    That’s a fantastic first coat result, it’s such a damn shame the factory can’t seem that Center the veneers better. Great work mate!


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
    FrankenLab
    Hand crafting guitars, because Death Rays are expensive.


  9. #19
    Yeah, the veneer being off center is a shame indeed, but when you hold the guitar in the angle that it would hang from the strap, its less visible.

    Btw, two little questions,
    I'm going for a burst effect with black stain around the edges, at first i thought it would be best to apply the burst after the installation of the binding. This so that if i accidentally scrape of to much binding and because of that also scrape off some wood, i could re-apply some black stain there. But now i'm thinking about that, when i've glued in the binding, there's a chance of little glue spots forming on the veneer, making that the burst would not adhere any more. What what do you guys recommend?

    And secondly, does any of you guys have experience with glueing binding, and what method to do this would you recommend?
    It's ABS binding.

    Cheers!

  10. #20
    Mentor DarkMark's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Location
    Perth, WA
    Posts
    1,570
    Hi Mathijsrie. I have done small scale binding jobs prior to staining, not a stained guitar body. My work has also required sanding as the binding has sat higher than the surface. I use acetone painted onto the binding and wood which dissolves the binding enough to adhere it to the wood once dry (I also use a little binding/acetone slurry like a glue). I’ve tried using painters tape to hold the binding until it dries but given the sharper curves I’ve been dealing with I found this didn’t work well...but perhaps a better adhesive tape might work on the angles of your guitar body but I would be concerned about the horns.

    I think most people here would use a glue and I guess that may be your best option? Hopefully a gluing guru will speak up. I suspect you will require some pre shaping of the binding, especially from the neck to around the horns. I don’t have a heat gun to do this but got away with submersing the binding into boiled water and working quickly.

    Lots of YouTube videos out there. Hope you find some use in what I’ve said, even if it’s just rejecting my method.
    Good luck and look forward to seeing what you do.

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 1 2 3 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •