Well now that you pointed it out, it kinda bothers me. It was something I noticed but hadn't considered modifying. Would veneer require shaving down the surface under the veneer? You'd fill the holes, glue down the veneer, then re-drill, huh? I'd have to route the edge after gluing?
No, the veneer is pretty darn thin and you wouldn't notice once it's glued down.Originally Posted by OctoberBassRCA-4
I just trim it within a mm or so and then use sandpaper to finesse the edges.
cheers, Mark.
Mark, if I go this route, could I veneer the walnut wings and maple in the middle? I've never done this before, but what the hell? This seems rather intense.
I've only done Fender style headstocks but I can't see why you couldn't experiment.
If it all goes balls up (which it shouldn't) you can always wood fill and then paint it.
cheers, Mark.
I like your optimism, can you match up walnut and maple and make it work?
Mark Casey, where do you suggest purchasing the maple veneer here in the States, what thickness is typical to do this? Have you any links showing how to do this?
Since last I posted, I've sanded the machine marks and the ends better. The fretboard has been 0000 Steel Wooled, although I will take Waz advice and maybe 1500/2000 wet dry a bit more to smooth out the inlays. Received my MM pup, and have ordered a Humbucker template and a 12" radius sanding block. Coming along slowly.
So I'm looking at the bridge placement. Not sure I'll keep the MM style bridge, but overall placement is critical. I already ran my pencil centerline off. Now I'm using the factory routes to determine center and work off of that. To keep the bridge square, I measured the same distance back from the rear pup cut. Experimenting with placement, from the saddle to the nut cut for each string, I'm testing with this laser. Does anyone know if this is not the way to go? 34" from the inside nut to 3/4 of the bridge saddles adjustments, approximately.
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