I know the feeling. I had a moth land back first on mine just as I finished the last pass this morning. Had to wait till it was dry before I could get the dam thing off as well as all that dust they shed,sand, then do it again.
I know the feeling. I had a moth land back first on mine just as I finished the last pass this morning. Had to wait till it was dry before I could get the dam thing off as well as all that dust they shed,sand, then do it again.
Build 19 PSH-1 Kustom
Build 18 HB-4S Kustom
Build 17 WL-1 Kustom
Build 16 TL-1TB Kustom
Build 15 PBG-2-
Build 14 FTD-1
Build 13 RD-1 Kustom
Build 12 DM-1S
Build 11 MKA-2 -
Build 10 Basic strat
Build 9 JM Kustom
Build 8 FV-1G
Build 7 ES-2V
Build 6- Community prototype
Build 5 LP-1LQ
Build 4 ES-5V
Build 3 JR-1
Build 2 GD-1
Build 1 TLA-1
Why do we do it to ourselves deman?!? Lol. I start off the body and go past the body too. I just finished spraying a tele body, same paint same lacquer same technique. Not sure what I have done different.
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Be a shame to give it up now - you just need to find some more reserves of patience.Originally Posted by Freakystyley
Build 1 - Shoegazer MK1 JMA-1
Build 2 - The Relliecaster TL-1
Build 3 - The Black Cherry SG AG-1
Build 4 - The Sonicaster TL-1ish
Build 5 - The Steampunker Bass YB-4
Build 6 - The Howling Gowing ST-1
"What I lack in talent I make up for with enthusiasm"
Don’t give up on the guitar, but I’ll forgive you if you decide to give up on the finish and just give it a relic job.
Current:
GTH-1
Completed:
AST-1FB
First Act ME276 (resurrected curb-side find)
ES-5V
Scratchie lapsteel
Custom ST-1 12 String
JBA-4
TL-1TB
Scratch Lapsteel
Meinl DIY Cajon
Cigar Box lap steel
Wishing:
Baritone
Open D/Standard Double 6 twin neck
I’d manage to somehow mess that up too. Lol. Need to sleep on it. Re assess tomorrow
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I figured out the problem. The supplier has put the wrong nozzle on the can. I have 4 cans of the same lacquer and realised that this one has a different nozzle. So after sanding back a bit and changing the nozzle I seem to be back on course....I’m glad I slept on it before throwing it on the fire
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The devil is in the detail, always in the detail. Good pickup mate, glad you didn’t Hendrix it!
FrankenLab
Hand crafting guitars, because Death Rays are expensive.
Just figured out a problem I probably should have noticed at the start, and definitely before painting. I can’t mount the switch. It would have to go inside the control cavity through the back of the body. But even at that the thickness of the wood between the cavity and top of the body is about 5mm. I don’t think I could screw it from the back. Even if I could because of that thickness of wood the arm of the switch isn’t long enough and doesn’t poke out enough. The tip would mark the finish when toggling.
Thinking I may need to route out the front of the body to a tele shape control cavity and mount a tele control plate. Similar to what they have done on the back.
How I didn’t think of this at the start is beyond me!
Any suggestions greatly appreciated
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Could you very carefully take another couple of mm off from the inside of the cavity just where the switch is?
Otherwise - I wonder if there is a toggle available with a longer arm on it?
Perhaps even using a smaller 'tip' on the top of the toggle might give you enough clearance?
Build 1 - Shoegazer MK1 JMA-1
Build 2 - The Relliecaster TL-1
Build 3 - The Black Cherry SG AG-1
Build 4 - The Sonicaster TL-1ish
Build 5 - The Steampunker Bass YB-4
Build 6 - The Howling Gowing ST-1
"What I lack in talent I make up for with enthusiasm"
I thought about taking a little off the inside of the cavity but then I definitely won’t be able to screw the switch in, the wood will be too thin and weak. I doubt glue would hold it either.
A quick google and eBay search has yelded nothing for a longer armed switch.
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