Ben's RCA-4 Build

[BJMtz]

I'm unsure what the next step should be. It seems like most people choose to do the clearcoat next. My only issue with that is I want to fill in the gaps where the neck meets the body and can I do that if I glue after there's a clearcoat?

[Fretworn]

You can glue the neck first if you want. The reason most people finish before gluing is because it will be very unwieldy to try and do the top coats once the neck and body are joined.

[BJMtz]

You can glue the neck first if you want. The reason most people finish before gluing is because it will be very unwieldy to try and do the top coats once the neck and body are joined.

Yea it makes sense that it's easier to do in separate pieces. If it's already clear coated (poly or tru oil) though can I go back and add filler and stain to the gaps on the pocket?

[BJMtz]

One thing I've worried about is the action being too high, which is a common problem I've read about in many build threads. I think I am going to order one of these stewmac maple shims. I'm looking at he the 1 degree which tapers from 0.060" to 0.010" (1.52mm to 0.25mm). It's a little pricey at $9 but I think better than me trying to make my own.
https://www.stewmac.com/Materials_an..._for_Bass.html

[Sonic Mountain]

Hey, I've used feeler gauges as shims with a lot of success on a cheap Ashton bass I have. You can get them for around $10 locally (I see you are in the US) which is a bit more than the shim you've mentioned - however you get about 50 shims in very small increments with a set of feeler gauges, so you can really fine tune the angle adjustment.

In regards to setting before finishing - yes it does make it a little more awkward to work on, but not so much that it's a real hassle. There is no hard and fast rule, so do what you feel comfortable with, there are pros and cons each way.

[BJMtz]

Hey, I've used feeler gauges as shims with a lot of success on a cheap Ashton bass I have. You can get them for around $10 locally (I see you are in the US) which is a bit more than the shim you've mentioned - however you get about 50 shims in very small increments with a set of feeler gauges, so you can really fine tune the angle adjustment.

In regards to setting before finishing - yes it does make it a little more awkward to work on, but not so much that it's a real hassle. There is no hard and fast rule, so do what you feel comfortable with, there are pros and cons each way.

Feeler gauges wouldn't work with a set neck would they? Only ones I have seen are metal.

[Sonic Mountain]

I don't really see why not, it only takes up a small portion towards the heel, so long as there is other wood to wood contact it should still glue in properly, but I can't say for sure as I've only done it with a bolt on.

[wazkelly]

Feeler gauges wouldn't work with a set neck would they? Only ones I have seen are metal.

Timber would be better, particularly if it needs a bit of reshaping first.

This kit is an odd shape and once neck is set it becomes a very long odd shaped object and not so easy to work with. It can be done, just takes more planning and patience.

Love the colour on end grain.

[Andyxlh]

Feeler gauges wouldn't work with a set neck would they? Only ones I have seen are metal.

On this kit I'd be careful using anything other than a timber shim as the heel of the neck is relatively small, and there's a couple of records of necks moving after they have been glued with this kit. Mine is ok, but I put plenty of the correct glue on the tongue and also on the sides of the heel when gluing.
I think a shim on this kit is a good idea, I wish I had one in mine!

[BJMtz]

This shim should be delivered tomorrow. What do you all think is the best process for gluing? These are the 3 ways options:
A. glue all the pieces together at the same time
B. glue the shim in the neck pocket and let dry, then glue the neck in
C. glue the shim to the neck heel and let dry, then glue neck in