I know you've been taking a break from building, but I am curious if you've figured out a solution to the routing for the pups?
I know you've been taking a break from building, but I am curious if you've figured out a solution to the routing for the pups?
Not yet. I've now bought the materials to make up the basic jig to hold the body in and provide a flat surface for the router to sit on, but haven't put it together yet. I was working on the headstock yesterday as I needed to drill my own tuner holes. As the factory holes were normally a bit wonky, I asked for an undrilled headstock, which also let me choose the tuners I wanted without worrying about whether the standard holes were too big or small. The Hipshot tuners I ended up with require a 17mm hole, which is quite large.
However, after drilling small pilot holes I simply couldn't find the set of forstner bits I'd bought a couple of weeks ago (I was being forced to tidy up by the wife, mutter mutter). So I've had to order another set which should turn up later today. So at least I'm making some progress on it.
The new set of Forster bits turned up, so it was 'drill the headstock time'.
Then time for a test fitting of the machine heads.
I've since stuck the MOP veneer on for backing for the logo and name. Tomorrow this and the ES-1/330 headstock faces get re-sprayed with several coats of black nitro to get the paint to slightly more that the thickness of the MOP veneer.
I've also started constructing the routing jig. Did a lot of cutting out today and drilling holes, but only got the sides attached to the baseplate as I'm waiting for the glue to dry properly (its screwed as well) before doing any more.
What's the weird contraption on the E tuner? Is it a tuning dropper?
That's exactly what it is. I think Hipshot has its name from a detuner they made for Telecasters that was activated by the player's hip. They don't sell it any more, but one of their next big ideas was a thumb activated drop-D detuner for basses. They've been making them ever since ;-)
To put in the FWIW category. I just did a couple of measurements, and have been looking at pups that will fit my next project. In the process I made an accidental discovery. It looks like the center block in an ESB-4 is about 96mm wide. The pups you have are about 89mm wide. That won't give you much extra room... Just FYI ;-)
Yes, its a Hipshot Xtender. Flip the lever and it allows the tuner to rotate a set amount (adjustable) to drop down to an D (or whatever drop you want within reason). You can even get an extra lever for them to allow you to drop to one of two pre-set tunings. Of course the more you drop, the looser the string becomes, so you need to use fairly heavy strings so the E string doesn't get too floppy.
I'm making the bass for a friend, and I've been fitting these to all his basses. He first saw one when I got my used Lakland Bob Glaub (P-style) bass, and that had one fitted and was very taken by it.
Guess you can't just use a banjo tuner on a bass.![]()
First (proper) build: http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=8546
Second build: http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ad.php?t=10229
You realise that you're now eternally damned for saying that.![]()
I think the reason for the standard bridged pulling out is the ridiculously soft wood used for the central block. I just drilled the two rear mounting holes out to 1/2" and a bit deeper to fit the wider and longer insert posts in, and each one took around a second to do, there was no resistance at all. There really isn't anything to keep the posts in place, especially the fairly short kit ones. I think I'll be strengthening the sides with some superglue, to help them hold together. Hopefully the longer inserts will distribute the load more evenly.